With the exception of a few genetically blessed babes with virgin hair, gorgeous colour doesn’t just happen. (Anyone who says they just drink a lot of water is lying. Lying, we tell you!) Whether you’re going blonde, accenting with auburn highlights, trying a shade inspired by your daily cup of coffee, or experimenting with an unconventional hue, achieving the very best version of your desired colour takes strategy, perseverance, and a commitment to good habits.
Ahead, master colourists and dermatologists weigh in on what women with incredible hair colour do to get the kind of strands that others envy, so you can become one of them.
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If you’re itching to make a major change, keep in mind that even the most talented colourist may not be able to pull it off in one shot. “When you first start out with a colourist, you’re working toward a goal,” says Nikki Ferrara, colourist at Serge Normant at John Frieda in New York City. “We always promise that you’re eventually going to have the colour of your dreams; it just may take a little time to get there.”
But don’t blame your colourist — blame science. Even with flexibility bonders like Olaplex, your colourist may not want to risk the chemical damage that can come from doing too much too fast. “A good hairstylist will only want the best for you and your hair,” says Hannah Edelman, who specialises in vivids at Brooklyn’s Brush in Hand. “If your stylist says it may take three sessions, don’t try to make them do it in one.”
“After care is always a big one for me,” Ferrara says. “Your hair looks great when you leave the salon, but the way you treat it once you leave is a huge indication of how your hair is going to be in between colour sessions.”
Although plenty of shampoos and conditioners are marketed as colour-safe, Edelman says spending a little more on what your colourist recommends can make a major difference in your colour’s tenacity. “Invest in colour-safe, sulphate-free products from professional brands. I’m currently loving Evo The Therapist Hydrating Shampoo and Amika Soulfood Nourishing Mask,” she says. “Make it a habit to use OlaplexHair Perfector No. 3 and a moisturising deep conditioner weekly.”
Speaking of deep conditioner, don’t wait until after you get your hair coloured to start using it. “Bleaching tends to dry hair and make it more porous, so it’s more prone to breakage and damage from other chemical and non-chemical processes,” says dermatologist and RealSelf contributor Dr.Sejal Shah, who believes in launching a preemptive strike against the havoc bleach can wreak. “Use a deep-conditioning treatment three days before bleaching and then weekly after to hydrate your hair and improve elasticity.” She recommends L'Oréal Elvive Total Repair 5 Damage Erasing Balm.
“It’s important to moisturise your scalp if you frequently colour your hair,” says dermatologist and RealSelf contributor Dr.Michele Green, who recommends products with natural oils like argan, tea tree, or rosemary. “Keeping your scalp healthy ensures that hair follicles are hydrated and minimises breakage. If the scalp is dry or unhealthy, the hair will most likely be unhealthy, too," she says.
In addition to using oils at home, your salon may offer more intensive scalp therapy. “At all of my salons, we offer nurturing scalp treatments that include a peppermint scalp revitaliser,” says stylist Paul Labrecque, who owns eponymous salons in New York City and Palm Beach. “The peppermint helps to open your sebaceous glands, allowing the pores on top of your head to really be cleansed and remove any irritants that might prohibit them from functioning properly."
In addition to scalp treatments, people with great colour often visit their salon for a gloss or toner refresh between appointments. “I always tell clients to come in between services for glosses, especially if they have low maintenance highlights that grow out very naturally,” explains Ferrara. You can also ask your colourist for the best at-home gloss or toner for your hair; Labrecque, for example, will customise a blend of conditioner and Manic Panic for his clients.
“Using toning products between colour appointments can help extend the life of your colour and minimise unnecessary damage and drying by reducing how often you need a treatment... especially for blondes using bleach," adds Leo Izquierdo, cofounder of IGK Hair Care. He recommends his brand's Mixed Feelings Leave-In Blonde Toning Drops. If you're a brunette, opt for a blue shampoo.
“Be kind to your hair when you’re styling it,” says Edelman, who realises air-drying every day may not be a realistic option for everyone. “Use heat tools sparingly, and keep them at 350 degrees or lower. Anything hotter will fade your colour.” And even at that lower temperature, she insists on using a heat-protectant.
Dr. Green agrees: “Apply minimal heat when styling colour-treated hair, and use protective styling products on hair before blow-drying,” she says. Try a priming cream like Verb Ghost Prep, which shields hair from heat damage and detangles.
Topical treatments make a huge difference in the look and feel of colour-treated hair, but to really take it to the next level, you have to consider what you’re ingesting. “Taking vitamins rich in biotin, vitamin B, and vitamin C can help improve texture, making hair shiny and healthy,” says Dr. Green.
That doesn’t necessarily mean you have to pop supplements every day. If you’re getting those vitamins from foods like salmon, avocado, leafy green vegetables, and strawberries on a regular basis, you could see an improvement in the look of your hair. “Consistent nutrition in your diet will keep your hair looking its best and most beautiful,” Labrecque says.
It’s natural to be curious about the unknown, but if you’re happy with your colourist, seeking out a new one just to see how it goes can have disastrous results. “I had one woman whose hair took me a year to repair after someone else ruined it,” Ferrara says of a client who strayed to a different salon. “If you’re in it for the long haul and want the same thing that the colourist does, then it’s best to stay put.” And that’s not just due to a sense of loyalty — your colourist makes a record of what colour and technique they use at each appointment, and going to another colourist without that info could lead to an unwanted outcome.
That said, “I don’t think there is anything wrong with a client seeing someone else if it’s been a few times and they’re not happy,” Ferrara explains. So if you’re really not vibing with the colourist you’ve been seeing and you haven’t achieved your desired colour after several appointments, give someone else a try.
Ultimately, great colour’s best friend is a great hairstyle, so consider working with a colourist and stylist simultaneously to accomplish a colour and style that truly complement each other. “Dream hair colour goes hand in hand with a beautiful hair cut,” Ferrara says. “Women with gorgeous hair always take the advice of both their colourist and stylist, so timing your haircuts with your colour appointments would be ideal.”
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