In 2018, clear, glowing skin is the new status symbol, implying that those of us without a flawless complexion just aren't trying hard enough. There's very little room for conversations about skin that falls outside the Instagram-perfect, lit-from-within standards.
Looking to dismantle the illusion and break down the stigma around skin conditions like cystic acne, psoriasis and rosacea, London-based photographer Sophie Harris-Taylor shot and interviewed makeup-free women from across the country for a series called Epidermis, in an effort to highlight and celebrate the diversity of our skin.
"I wanted to create a series of work that empowers and allows women to love the skin they’re in, regardless of what condition they have," Sophie explained. "Suffering from severe acne throughout my teens and 20s left me incredibly self-conscious and I longed for 'normal' skin. Normality is defined by the images we see all around us. We are led to believe all women have perfect flawless skin – they don’t."
While we know that overexposure to a certain type of image can alter your perception of reality, Instagram is arguably more pervasive and sinister than billboards and magazine ads. The 637,540 (at the time of writing) posts tagged #FlawlessSkin make us feel just as bad about our faces as painfully thin, hairless models do about our average, hairy bodies.
"Whether not shown or simply disguised, many women suffer from conditions such as acne, rosacea and eczema, and most of these women feel a pressure to hide behind a mask of makeup, covering up what actually makes them unique," Sophie says. "Here, these beautiful women proudly bare their skin.”
While makeup can work wonders for your confidence, and is a joyous way to express your individuality, heavy coverage shouldn't be the only option for those battling skin conditions. We need to normalise and salute skin that isn't "flawless" – otherwise we'll just continue to pressure women into hiding their true selves and delivering their appearance in a neat little package. Let's question what "perfection" really means, and remind ourselves that glowing, clear skin is not beauty's be-all and end-all.
Ahead, we've selected eight women from Sophie's series, who show us their skin in all its natural glory, and talk about how their relationship to it has changed over time.
Joice Gonzalez, 22
"I've had acne for about 10 years or so, ever since I had my first period. It definitely took a toll on my self-esteem growing up, to the point where I was embarrassed to even step foot outside my house. The thought of people looking at all the 'problems' on my face gave me anxiety. I just wanted to hide my face from everyone.
I became obsessed with constantly trying new methods that would potentially cure my skin concerns. I would tell myself that once I got clear beautiful skin, I'd feel better about myself. But over the past few years, on my journey of personal health and wellness, I've learned to love and accept myself exactly the way I am. It's been a difficult process, but I feel more empowered and I stopped caring what people think of my skin anymore. At the end of the day, it's just skin. It shouldn't dictate my entire life. Though my skin has gotten better ever since I started taking better care of my body, I've accepted that I may never have perfect skin. And that's okay.
Being photographed for this, I definitely felt like I was in a position of vulnerability, but it was also extremely refreshing. It allowed me to feel more comfortable in my body and it was a reminder that I don't need to have makeup to feel beauty. Years ago, I probably would've been horrified looking at a portrait of myself with no coverage on my skin, but today I feel differently. I feel empowered by the image of myself."
Gina McTeague, 19
"I've had spots since I was about 14, but had acne since I was around 16. I'd say it's affected me mainly negatively; it's frustrating feeling like you need to put on layers of foundation before leaving the house or not wanting to be barefaced around people you don't know well. I used to hate when it was time to take off my makeup if I was staying at someone's house. I usually cover up my skin; being without makeup always made me feel so insecure and I thought people would think, 'Oh her skin is horrible, she looks so ugly.'
When I heard about Sophie's project, I thought it was so wicked because you never hear about something like this cropping up. When first in front of the camera it was mildly terrifying having absolutely nothing covering my skin, but after the first few shots, it actually felt pretty empowering, not having to mask anything for the shoot. I think it took me a minute or two to warm to the image at first, but it's actually really striking. I'll always be able to pick out a hundred flaws with myself, but having my biggest insecurity displayed in such a beautiful light is really amazing!"
Tina Guetierrez, 23
"I've had hyperpigmentation since I was 15. I started breaking out when I got to high school. I'm learning to leave the house without makeup but I always feel weird without it. I feel like people are focusing on my acne marks. I always exaggerate my American accent so people can focus on that instead of my skin. I cover it up and feel better with a layer of foundation.
Being photographed for this, I was nervous at first but I ended up feeling so empowered. I really enjoy how calm I look. I'm not focusing on my skin or body. I look like I'm at peace with myself."
Indiana Wrigley, 21
"I've had cystic acne for about two-and-a-half years. It flared up mid-November 2017 due to severe stress in my personal life. Two of my close friends attempted suicide and it was my final year of university. I was the most overwhelmed I had ever been. It affected my self-confidence massively, my reflection was not who I am. During the month break I had from university, I left the house three times. One of these events was my 21st birthday and I would not let anyone take photos of, or with me. I usually attempt to cover up my skin. I feel with acne, people tend to assume you eat poorly, don’t wash or aren’t capable of professionalism.
I felt exposed and empowered having my photo taken by Sophie. Getting the train to her studio was a nerve-wracking experience; it felt like people stared at my uneven tones and blistered face. After the photoshoot I went to meet my mum for a drink, she hadn’t seen me for a few months. I did not cover my skin up, I let it breathe and felt myself do the same.
Looking at the photograph, it brings out a mix of emotions; sadness, because it encapsulates a time when I felt powerless and at my lowest, but overjoyed as the process was a reversal of that powerlessness. I took what made me feel the lowest and I shared it under broad daylight. The warmth and respect I received from others has been immense.
This project is exactly what I needed when I was experiencing skin abnormality. As plus-size models are celebrated and mental healthcare grows, self-acceptance and advice on skincare, for all skin types and conditions, is the next step. People of all ages need to be taught how to be kind to themselves, not encouraged to hide. This is a relatable subject to all, and therefore a door to human connection and love – let’s open it!"
Holy Serukenya, 19
"I've had acne scarring and pigmentation since year 11. At times my confidence would diminish, especially when going out, wanting to look my best or impress others. I'd often compare my skin with my friends' skin and think, 'Why doesn't their skin play up like mine?' I would think to myself, 'How is it that they pop a spot and it disappears after a couple of days, but if I do that I end up with scars from a good six months to a year depending on severity?'"
Issey Gladston, 19
"I have had eczema on the usual places on my body since I was a baby but it only started being on my face last year when I started university. I think that with everything there are benefits, and the benefit of having eczema for so long means that I am very in tune with my body as a result. I understand that I need to take care of my body and mind, as neglecting either side can lead to a flare-up.
I think it’s also important to realise that in the grand scheme of things I have a very good life, so it is almost a luxury to be able to worry about something as insignificant as my skin rather than food, shelter or education. But at the same time I have bad days where it does feel like the end of the world, and it can be quite difficult to deal with not having 'perfect' skin and being pretty powerless to make a change to it. My eczema is cyclic and linked to stress so it tends to flare up when I am having a hard time in general. When it is flared up I do cover it up because it’s hard to deal with the attention and anxiety that a visible and unusual skin condition can bring.
I felt scared about being photographed because even some of my closest friends haven’t seen my skin flared up and uncovered; but I also felt very excited. At the time I was writing an essay about feminist body art and power relations, and in the process of doing this I realised that our current beauty standards, and in turn my relationship with my skin is a result of the expectations placed on a female body by patriarchal [structures]. I realised that a beautiful and accurate representation of eczema would have helped me when I was younger, as there is a lack of this imagery. But I also feel like a bit of a hypocrite because although I crave this representation I’m also very quick to cover my eczema up in order to better align myself with beauty standards.
It’s one thing to notice a lack of representation but it's also important to be active in changing that, so although it's scary to be so physically and emotionally bare in front of the camera, it also marks the first step of my acceptance of eczema as a feature of mine, rather than a flaw."
Izzy Clifford, 23
"I've had acne and been compulsive skin picking for 10 years. I do feel very self-conscious about my skin, and feel that I've tried everything under the sun to get it 'under control', but as I have gotten older I have realised that skin isn't naturally smooth, even, untextured, and that none of the faces I look at in real life look like my 'ideal' skin. That's not to say I don't sometimes stop and look in the mirror and feel ashamed of my face, particularly if I'm out and about with no makeup on, but I've learned that those thoughts aren't useful and try not to obsess over them. The thing I find most difficult to cope with is the compulsive skin picking, because it's a manifestation of anxiety that I wear in the scars on my face. I don't really talk about it, and didn't really come to terms with the fact that it is a compulsion until a few months ago, despite having done it for years.
Whether I cover up my skin really depends on a multitude of factors; time, stress level, where I'm going, but not really on whether I think my skin is 'bad' or 'good'. If I'm going to work I'll wear makeup, but I'll happily go out with friends barefaced. I'm used to being out without makeup on, but I'm not used to the way I look being the focus of any given interaction. Being photographed for this was a really nice experience, I felt able to be entirely candid about the way I looked with Sophie."
Louisa Northcote, 21
"I started getting acne really bad when I was 15. It has affected so much of my life, I lost a lot of self-confidence and it even stopped me from leaving the house. I used to cover up my skin all the time, but after being on a TV programme and showing a lot of the world my biggest insecurity, I don't anymore. I decided to post a makeup-free selfie on Instagram with the hashtag #FreeThePimple – it being out there actually empowered me to not care and just embrace it. In addition the amount of messages I get daily from other people telling me they suffer with it and how much of an inspiration I am to have the confidence to show it helps me keep going.
I believe acne isn't something that actually gets spoken about enough; we hear a lot about weight and body image but not acne. Acne is also a huge cause of some mental health cases and the society we live in seems to tell us it is a bad and ugly thing that should be covered up. Growing up I didn’t have someone to relate to or 'look up to' in the public eye who also suffered with acne, so it was hard – I felt alone. Therefore to be part of such a project is so amazing and I love that I am not alone. I hope this can show other people like me that they are beautiful."
Read More Like This...
4 Queer Femmes On What 'Feminine' Beauty Means To Them
Why I'm Dreading Sunny Weather
The Beauty Queens Of Miss Africa GB
Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
Dermatillomania AKA Skin Picking: What Is It & How Do You Stop It?