Quantcast
Channel: Refinery29
Viewing all 20479 articles
Browse latest View live

We Know We Need It, But What Is SPF?

$
0
0

Beauty buzzwords are thrown around all the time; it can be hard to keep up and know what's worth exploring further. We're here to break down the industry's latest obsession by tackling the science, talking to skincare and makeup pros, and getting real about what works and what doesn’t.

We're told to wear SPF every day, and we know it prevents sun burn, skin damage, and the ageing process. But what exactly is SPF?

If you weren’t paying attention in science class, then SPF – sun protection factor – is probably something you’re vaguely aware you should be wearing, but not entirely sure why, or what it does.

A spokesperson from REN skincare explains: “Sunscreen products contain ingredients that help absorb UV rays and convert the sun’s radiation into heat energy, which acts as a physical sunscreen that help to deflect and to scatter the rays before they penetrate the skin. These products are formulated to provide various levels of protection from UVA, UVB, and IR rays.”

And how does factor 50 differ from factor 15?

“SPF refers to the ‘theoretical’ amount of time you can stay in the sun without getting sunburned after application”, Dermatologist and founder of Murad Skincare, Dr Howard Murad, tells us. “For example, an SPF of 15 would allow you to stay in the sun 15 times longer than you could without protection”. So that explains why someone with sun-sensitive fair skin would need protection lasting up to 50 times longer in the heat. “It’s important to remember: the higher the SPF means the longer the protection; not the stronger the protection. So once that time period has elapsed, re-apply! And remember other factors may reduce the protection levels, like water, sand, clothes, perspiration – so if in doubt about your SPF protection, then reapply.”

REN’s spokesperson tells us, “The Sun Protection Factor rating system has been established by the Food and Drug Administration to measure primarily the amount of UVB sunburn protection the product will provide. No rating system has yet been established for measuring UVA protection.” So there’s a key difference between UVA and UVB and the suncreams that protect us from both. How do we protect ourselves from UVA then?

“The best protection from the sun is a product that is ‘broad spectrum’, which means it protects from both UVA ‘aging rays’ and UVB ‘burning rays’” A Skin Laundry spokesperson explained. So make sure your suncream is both wrinkle-busting and skin-protecting.

It’s a resounding yes for SPF. Skin is the body’s largest organ, so if you’re going to be purist about the cleanser you’re using or the green juices you’re drinking, it makes sense to be fanatical about skin protection too.

REN’s spokesperson says, “Everyone should use sun protection, even skin that tans easily and rarely burns, because like sunburn, a tan can result in DNA damage from exposure to the sun’s harmful UV radiation.”

Skin Laundry echoed this sentiment: “Using SPF daily should be as standard a part of our everyday routine as brushing our teeth. It is a habit that should begin as a child, and should last a lifetime. Even on cloudy, snowy or gray days, we need to protect our skin. Wearing SPF every single day is the smartest and safest way to keep your skin looking it’s youngest, healthiest and most beautiful!”

So now you know to use it every day – and we mean every day people, even if you’re nowhere near a beach – which should we go for? “I would recommend choosing an SPF that has added benefits for your skin”, Dr Murad tells us. “Sunscreens should always include hydrators, anti-inflammatory agents and antioxidants, as these products will also help repair the skin’s barrier to make it better able to defend itself from the sun and other environmental aggressors, like bacteria and pollution.”

Clearing your skin post-suncream is just as key for skin health, Lisa Mammeri, Global Education Manager at Valmont skincare, advises us. “Cleansing and washing properly the skin after using a SPF product is a good recommendation to prevent breaking out, as some mineral sunscreens can clog the pores on some skin types.”

Lesson learned. Wear SPF all year round, and cleanse thoroughly to avoid breakouts. Click through to see our favourite skin-saving SPF products.

This day cream uses Vitamin C to help skin stay youthful, firm and illuminated. It also contains antioxidants to protect skin from harmful free radical damage, along with broad spectrum sun protection against UVA and UVB rays.

Murad Essential-C Day Moisture SPF 30, £55, available at Murad.

This broad spectrum moisturiser is lightweight, hydrating, and doesn't turn your face white like a lot of SPFs do (flashbacks to your mum spreading suncream on your nose on holiday).

Skin Laundry Advanced Protection Moisturiser SPF35, £24, available at Skin Laundry.

One sure fire way to protect your skin is to swap your regular products with those that have it built in already, like this BB Cream. It fights both UVA and UVB, and is silicone-free too.

REN Satin Perfection BB Cream, £28, available at REN.

Pixi's latest spring drop includes this lightweight mist. It's broad spectrum, with SPF 30 and chamomile and bamboo extracts, and is ideal for popping in your bag on sunny days.

Pixi Sun Mist, £18, available at Pixi.

Is the thought of adding yet another step in your beauty routine too much? This cleanser has SPF 30 to make your morning ritual more efficient.

Dr Russo SPF 30 Sun Protective Day Cleanser, £52, available at Dr Russo.

This mattifying sunscreen is ideal for oil-slicked skin and those who breakout at the first sign on sun protection.

Avene Cleanance Suncream SPF50+, £16, available at Boots.

Elemis' cult anti-wrinkle cream just got updated with much-asked-for SPF. There's a reason this hit product flies off shelves: it makes skin pillowy and bright, and now has broad spectrum protection to boot.

Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream SPF 30, £82, available at Elemis.

Want more like this?
Break It Down: Copper
Break It Down: Parabens and Sulphates
Break It Down: SPF

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

The Best Products For Getting Rid Of Acne Scars

The Mistakes You're Making With Your Acne Scars — & How To Fix 'Em

How To Find The Right Serum To Transform Your Skin


How I #MadeIt: Olivia Burton

$
0
0

Seven years ago two fashion students started a watch company from their kitchen table, using up every last penny of their £15,000 savings. Last year, the same two women sold that watch company to a major luxury accessories conglomerate for a cool £60 million.

Best friends Jemma Fennings and Lesa Bennett tapped into the affordable watch market at a time when it was becoming hugely competitive. There was a race to get to a neglected demographic looking for reasonably priced watches that – crucially – didn’t compromise on design or aesthetic and it’s fair to say that Olivia Burton got a slice of that pie. Working with your best friend, creating a world-leading brand, and making millions? That’s the holy trinity, surely. We sat down with them and asked them how they did it.

Hi Jemma, Lesa. Let's start off with you telling us a bit about how the idea for the company came about?

Jemma: When we were at uni we had lots of different ideas, but we knew that we had to go out into the industry and get some experience first, so we both started careers in fashion buying. It was once we'd been in the industry for about seven years that we then regrouped and revisited some of our ideas. We still had this burning desire to start our own business and do our own thing, but we obviously had a lot more experience and lessons learned having worked for other companies, including major high street brands.

Lesa: Yes, like Jemma said, we knew that we wanted to start a business, so really we were just looking for the right thing for us to do. One of my first jobs was working for an online retailer buying women's watches. From seeing what's going on in the watches market and talking to Jemma we really felt like there was a gap in the market for a new watch brand.

You’ve both worked for some very successful brands. What was it about setting up your own business that appealed to each of you?

Jemma: We'd worked really, really hard for other people, and felt that we were making significant contributions to businesses that we were working in. And I think we are both individuals who have that entrepreneurial spirit and a real desire to go it alone. We just desperately wanted something that we could grow and that we could nurture.

Running your own business, is it important to keep a clear distinction between work and home life?

Jemma: A lot of the companies that we'd worked in were typical 9-6 organisations and we recognised that the world was changing, and flexible working was something that we were keen to have for ourselves. Being able to pick our hours, and also the hours to grow a family while also growing a business, was something that was really attractive for us.

Are your approaches to work different?

Lesa: Yes, purely because of having different roles in the company. I would say that I'm actually quite good at separating work and life, and I enjoy being able to switch off so that I can build my work around the hours that I want to do and that works for me.

Jemma: I think because I look after the creative, and the product and the marketing side of things, my hours are probably a bit strange, in the sense that I'm always on social media in the evenings, and scrolling through Instagram for inspiration.

You must have so much going on all the time...

Jemma: Definitely! My fiancé and I share everything including childcare which means we have a really balanced work-life dynamic. It's really nice to be able to do both things; I think when you work you have your own sense of identity, and that's really important to me.

And what are the challenges of working with your best friend?

Jemma: I suppose it's a little bit like working with your family, that you really expect more from each other. So I think if you're going into business with your friend, then you need to be prepared that your friendship might change.

How do you think your personalities contribute to your success?

Lesa: So we do have quite similar backgrounds, and a lot of similar skills. But we've naturally taken slightly different paths within the company, to just follow our strengths. So I've taken more of the commercial side of the business, growing the sales and leading some of the business strategy while Jemma is leading more of the creative side, the marketing and the product. Although we have similar skill sets, we're diversifying to benefit the business.

And do you think there've been any particular challenges you've faced, being women?

Jemma: I think sometimes we found when we had to go and meet bank managers in order to open up a business account, and actually start having conversations about setting up all those practical things that you have to do when you start a company, we did sometimes feel patronised. And a lot of professional men that we encountered were quite condescending in the sense that they'd be dismissive of two young girls with an idea for a fashion business.

They couldn’t have been more wrong. So, what are your plans for the future?

Jemma: Our mission is to become the world's number one accessories brand for women. We would love to become a lifestyle brand, and explore other product areas. Because at the moment we have watches and jewellery, but there's so much more we can do in terms of product extensions, so we'd really love to put the Olivia Burton stamp on everything from homeware to stationery.

Shop Olivia Burton here

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

These Trench Coats Are Anything But Boring

6 Shoe Brands That Fashion People Love

It's Been 10 Years Since The Hills. Kelly Cutrone Is Still Pissed Off

London Radio Station Shuts Down After Sexual Harassment & Racism Claims

$
0
0

A London-based radio station has gone off air after a string of allegations of sexual harassment, racism and homophobia, and the mass resignation of its DJs and producers.

Several young people with experience working at Radar Radio have severed ties with the station, issuing statements on social media this week. The station announced it would be "suspend[ing] broadcasting" until the accusations were addressed.

The three-year-old station, owned by Ollie Ashley, the son of billionaire founder of Sports Direct Mike Ashley, is a well-respected platform for young musicians and broadcasters, and has hosted guests including Cardi B, M.I.A, and JME.

The controversy began when the DJ collective Pxssy Palace, which had a show on Radar, released a statement announcing it would no longer be working with the station after "a string of disappointing experiences".

In the social media post Pxssy Palace alleged that the station had allowed "the airing of sexist, homophobic and transphobic shows", enabled "organisational racism" in the form of unequal pay and promotion opportunities, and "[created] an uncomfortable and toxic environment", the BBC reported.

The station responded to the allegations in a statement on Friday, saying it was "concerned and disappointed to see [Pxssy Palace's] statement" suggesting it was "getting some important aspects wrong".

It apologised to anyone who felt "unsafe or discriminated against" at the station. "We don’t agree with all the opinions in that statement but like most organisations we know we are capable of making mistakes and have to be vigilant to maintain standards. We have taken immediate action to review and assess any shortcomings with the input of all Radar staff, especially those who are female, LGBTQI+ and POC."

The statement provoked a flurry of allegations from other DJs and producers on social media, including a detailed blog entry by Ashtart Al-Hurra, a former studio assistant and producer at the station, on her blog Mixed Spices on Friday. In the post, titled "I’m a Woman of Colour Who Was Mistreated at Radar Radio – Their Reaction to Pxssy Palace’s Leaving Statement Was Absolute Trash. Here's Why", Al-Hurra said she was "one of [the] women of colour staff" who had been mistreated at Radar.

She said she was "sexually harassed, like, fucking tonnes, by dickhead dj dudes", adding: "This is shit for anybody, but triggering especially for me, as I’m a survivor of child abuse, domestic abuse and r*pe (which I was dealing with at the time)."

When she complained to Radar's management, she wrote that she "was told that what happened 'just sounded like small things', that 'it’s just boys being boys', and that 'they’re just chirpsing'. They concluded by saying that I should tell a manager (which I had done) or 'stay silent on the topic'."

Many others affiliated with the station tweeted that they would be severing ties.

Refinery29 has contacted Radar Radio for comment.

Read These Next:

The 3 Places Where Sexual Harassment Is Most Common
I Grew Up Loving Dance Music. But Where Are All The Female DJs?
Industry Insiders Tell Refinery29 What It Will Really Take To Get More Women In Music

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

5 Women On How They're Using WhatsApp To Change The World

"I Moved To Ireland Because Of Brexit": A 23-Year-Old Woman Who Gave Up On Britain

#RoyalBaby: The Best Reactions To Prince Harry & Meghan Markle's News

5 Young Female Artists That Are Going To Be Big

$
0
0

Refinery29 is proud to partner with University of the Arts London's Xhibit for the second year running, helping to support the next generation of creative talent.

Xhibit is the annual art exhibition, founded in 1997, showcasing the best creative talent from across all of the UAL colleges (including Central Saint Martins, London College of Fashion, London College of Communication, Camberwell College of Arts, Chelsea College of Arts, and Wimbledon College of Arts).

Xhibit is unlike any other University exhibition in that it's open to all students, from fine art first years to journalism Masters students, to those studying for a PhD. The entrants aren't given a brief, theme or medium constraints, their only requirement is that they're currently in education.

The R29 Vision Award is returning for a second year, honouring diversity and original thought in their entrants' chosen field. Judged by Refinery29's Creative Director Piera Gelardi, the winner of the R29 Vision Award will be profiled on Refinery29.

See work from last year's winner Katarina Rankovic here.

The show will feature 30 students' work and runs at 183 - 185 Bermondsey Street, London, from 19th April until 12th May.

We've selected some of our favourites from the exhibition for you here...

Annie-Marie Akussah ,

WINNER of the Refinery29 Vision Award 2018

BA Fine Art ,Wimbledon College of Arts

@Annieakussah

Anke Buchmann

BA Ceramic Design, Central Saint Martins

@ankebuchmann

Rayvenn Shaleigha D'Clark

MA Fine Art, Chelsea College of Arts

@rayvenndclark_art

Roisin Sullivan

BA Fine Art & Diploma of Professional Studies, Central Saint Martins

@roisin_sullivan

Jo Lane

MA Drawing, Wimbledon College of Arts

XHIBIT runs at 183 - 185 Bermondsey Street, London, from 19th April until 12th May.

@__jolane__

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

5 Women On How They're Using WhatsApp To Change The World

"I Moved To Ireland Because Of Brexit": A 23-Year-Old Woman Who Gave Up On Britain

#RoyalBaby: The Best Reactions To Prince Harry & Meghan Markle's News

Stormy Daniels Plans To Donate £90,000 To Planned Parenthood In Trump's Name

$
0
0

If Stormy Daniels wins her lawsuit against President Donald Trump and his personal attorney Michael Cohen, she plans to donate $130,000 (£90,000) — the amount of money she was paid to keep silent about her alleged affair with Trump — to Planned Parenthood.

The cherry on top is that the donation will be made in Trump and Cohen's name.

Daniels, who was born Stephanie Clifford, made the revelation in a a new interview with Penthouse, hitting newsstands on May 8. She's not the first person to donate to the health organisation in the name of an anti-abortion politician. Right after the 2016 presidential election, a call to donate on behalf of Vice President Mike Pence went viral. In the space of just one week, Planned Parenthood received about 20,000 donations in Pence's name.

Reports that Daniels was paid in exchange for her silence on the alleged relationship first surfaced in January and she has not left the news cycle since, to the detriment of the Trump White House.

In October 2016, after the infamous Access Hollywood tape was leaked, Cohen paid Daniels £90,000 out of his own pocket so she would keep quiet about her alleged one-year-long affair with Trump.

The condition for the payment was that Daniels signed agreement banning her from disclosing information about the relationship — including sharing texts, photos, or any information about Trump or his other sexual partners. Before she signed the agreement in 2016, she had discussed the relationship in a 2011 InTouch interview. (At the time Cohen blocked the interview from being published.)

But now, Daniels wants out of the agreement. She sued Trump and Cohen, alleging that the "hush money" contract was never signed by Trump himself and is therefore invalid.

"I don’t have shame," she told Penthouse. "You can’t bully me."

Read these stories next:

We All Want To Know The Identity Of The Man In Stormy Daniels' Sketch

Stormy Daniels Reminds Us Why People Rarely Lie About Sexual Misconduct Allegations

The Surprising Connection Between Seth Rogen, Stormy Daniels & Donald Trump

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

'When They Go Low, We Go Hard': How Black Women Are Seizing This Political Moment

Taylor Swift Told Her 112 Million Followers To Register To Vote — I Listened. Here's Why.

The Body Language Behind Melania Trump's "Most Bullied Person" Comment, Explained

How To Say No To Sex (Without Decimating Your S.O's Confidence)

$
0
0

Sometimes you're just not in the mood for sex – and that's okay. There is, however, a right way and a wrong way to turn down your partner's sexual advances, at least when it comes to the health of your relationship, a new study suggests.

Research published in the Journal of Social and Personal Relationships found that as long as your rejection is framed in a positive way, saying no to sex won't harm your relationship.

This suggests that a mismatched sex drive, a common factor of many long-term relationships, doesn't necessarily mean a partnership is doomed.

Researchers from Canada carried out two surveys with 642 adults and found that people would prefer their partner to turn them down in a reassuring way (for instance, by saying you love them, are attracted to them and will make it up to them in future), than to have unwanted sex to avoid disappointing them.

“We were interested in this topic because couples often encounter times when one partner wants to have sex while the other partner does not," study c0-author James Kim of University of Toronto Mississauga told PsyPost. "This can be a particularly challenging issue for romantic partners to navigate. During these times, it’s not always clear what people can or should do to sustain the quality of their relationship and sex life."

Unsurprisingly, people were happiest when their partner accepted their advances enthusiastically, and least satisfied when they were met with frustration and criticism from their partner.

Interestingly, the researchers found that sex that's based on "avoidance goals" (namely, to avoid conflict or causing offence), can be more damaging – particularly in longer relationships and relationships in which sex is less regular – than rejecting a partner's sexual advance in a positive way.

“When people are not in the mood for sex and find that the main reason they are inclined to ‘say yes’ is to avoid hurting their partner’s feelings or the relationship conflict that might ensue, engaging in positive rejection behaviours that convey love and reassurance may be critical to sustain relationship quality,” the researchers said.

Twenty-eight-year-old Talia's lack of interest in sex with a former long-term partner was one of the biggest contributing factors to the relationship's demise. She now realises she took the wrong approach when she frequently turned down his advances. "I'd often say I had a stomach ache and/or headache and so wasn't feeling up to it, or I'd say I was too tired and ask to have sex the next morning instead – making sex with him sound like a terrible ordeal that had to be endured," she told Refinery29.

"My physical attraction to him had definitely waned after so many years of being together, which he'd probably already guessed, and there's no doubt my terrible excuses made matters worse."

Meanwhile, Naomi, 25, says the few occasions in which her partner turned her down years ago affected her sexual confidence for years. "It happened a few times when I was at university," she told Refinery29. He would spend up to five hours travelling to see her after a full day at work, and would use the excuse of being shattered when she "tried it on".

"I became so nervous about trying it on with him and I pretty much stopped. I hated how the rejection felt – even though it was for a legitimate reason – and really went into my shell sexually. When we moved in together later on, he brought up my timidness and reluctance to start proceedings, so I told him how devastated I was when he was too tired that one time We laugh about it now, but it really upset and frustrated me."

Read These Next:

Not In The Mood? Read This...
The Age That Women Have The Best Sex Of Their Lives
How Feng Shui Can Improve Your Sex Life

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

5 Women On How They're Using WhatsApp To Change The World

"I Moved To Ireland Because Of Brexit": A 23-Year-Old Woman Who Gave Up On Britain

#RoyalBaby: The Best Reactions To Prince Harry & Meghan Markle's News

Republican Men Are Against Abortion — Until They Want Their Mistress To Get One

$
0
0

For the GOP, the party of "family values," few things are more destructive to the family — the "bedrock of our nation" — than abortion. Republican men in Congress have made banning legal and safe abortion a cornerstone of their platform, pushing policy that restricts access to the procedure time and time again, as the "sanctity of life" of an unborn foetus is paramount to America's future.

That's all well and good — unless said Republican wants the woman he's having an affair with to get an abortion.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

On Friday, Elliott Broidy, the Republican National Committee's deputy finance chairman, resigned after it was revealed he had President Donald Trump's personal lackey lawyer Michael Cohen pay off a Playboy Playmate he was having an affair with and who he happened to get pregnant. “I acknowledge I had a consensual relationship with a Playboy Playmate. At the end of our relationship, this woman shared with me that she was pregnant. She alone decided that she did not want to continue with the pregnancy and I offered to help her financially during this difficult period,” Broidy said in a statement to the Associated Press.

Broidy is not an outlier in the sanctimonious pool that is GOP men with skeletons in their closets.

Last year, anti-choice and pro-hypocrite Pennsylvania Rep. Tim Murphy resigned after it was revealed he asked a woman he was having an extra-marital affair with to have an abortion. In texts revealed by the Post-Gazette, Murphy said he never wrote any of his anti-abortion messaging — it was all his staff's doing. Even after Murphy's scandal was revealed, he voted yes on a 20-week abortion ban bill, that he just so happened to be the co-sponsor of.

Tim MurphyPhoto: AP Photo/Lauren Victoria Burke..
Elliott BroidyPhoto: Stefanie Keenan/Getty Images/Pepperdine University..

Rep. Murphy isn't even particularly bold when it comes to his hypocrisy. In 2012, Rep. Scott DesJarlais — who called himself a "consistent supporter of pro-life values" — was outed as having supported his ex-wife getting multiple abortions. Scott "Family Values" DesJarlais also slept with patients, which led him to be fined by a medical board.

He then ran for reelection — and actually won.

Then there's the party's current leader, President Donald Trump, who in a 2004 interview with Howard Stern said he asked then-girlfriend Marla Maples, "Well, what are we going to do about this?" when she revealed she was pregnant. “I’m glad it happened. I have a great little daughter, Tiffany. But, you know, at the time it was like, ‘Excuse me, what happened?'" Trump said.

In shouldn't be shocking that the party that has some members who believe there should be no exceptions for abortion — even in cases of incest and rape — also have members who like to bend the rules when it comes to their own lives. As author Jennifer Weiner wrote in the New York Times last year, "It’s almost as if these men don’t really believe that every time sperm and egg combine, the result is a child worthy of being cherished and protected. It’s almost as if these men are fighting to make abortion a crime because they’re more invested in curtailing women’s options and controlling their bodies than they are with saving innocent lives."

The hypocrisy may seem laughable at times, but it has real consequences for women across the US, as the GOP continues to wage a war on women's access to healthcare.

The party that says the government shouldn't be involved in citizens' healthcare should take their own advice (and perhaps not throw stones when they lives in glass houses) and leave the decision of getting an abortion or continuing a pregnancy between a woman and her doctor.

Read these stories next:

This Is How Abortion Ends In America

How Hard Is It To Get An Abortion In Every Single State?

Why The Anti-Abortion Movement Is Treating Cardi B Like A Hero

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

'When They Go Low, We Go Hard': How Black Women Are Seizing This Political Moment

Taylor Swift Told Her 112 Million Followers To Register To Vote — I Listened. Here's Why.

The Body Language Behind Melania Trump's "Most Bullied Person" Comment, Explained

Considering Going Vegan? Here's What Registered Dietitians Want You To Know

$
0
0

Deciding to go vegan is a personal choice: some believe that it's better for the environment not to eat meat, others want to take a personal step toward preventing animal suffering. Another sliver of the vegan population simply does it as a way to eat healthier.

Earlier this week, celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay tweeted that he was going to "give this #vegan thing a try." This was surprising, given that Ramsay has thrown shade at vegan people in the past. In February, he joked "I’m a member of PETA ! People eating tasty animals." So, while we don’t know what his motives are for going vegan (or if his tweet about turning vegan was 100% earnest), we can assume that trying out veganism would be a big lifestyle change for him.

Perhaps you, or someone you know on Facebook, has seen the new documentary, What The Health? The film is encouraging veganism in viewers (there's even a meal planner to help you on your "plant-based journey"), based on a bundle of alarmist assertions and assumptions about the food industry. "Absolutely everyone is talking about [the movie], and I have clients and people calling me saying, 'I want to be vegan!'" says Mascha Davis, MPH, RDN, a registered dietitian nutritionist in Los Angeles and spokesperson for the American Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics. Veganism isn't new, but this movie is attracting a new crowd to the idea.

However, eating vegan isn't a silver bullet that's going to solve all of your health issues or make you instantly healthier, Davis says. "People love to have a quick solution and easy answer, and that's not the case with nutrition," Davis says. "That's why these myths, trends, and fads become so popular." Not to mention, a food product or diet being vegan doesn't mean that it's inherently healthy, says Jen Bruning, MS, RDN, LDN, a registered dietitian nutritionist in Chicago and spokesperson for the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics.

"When you come down to it, it just depends on what your diet is made up of," Bruning says. For example, you could eat nothing but fries all day every day, and it would be considered vegan, but not necessarily healthy. "The idea that [veganism] an automatic improvement in health or nutrition is probably one of the biggest myths," she says.

That said, it is possible to be vegan and eat a healthful, well-rounded diet, you just have to be smart about it and weigh the potential health ramifications with what you perceive to be the benefits, Davis says. "The issue is not that the vegan diet isn’t healthy, it’s that it’s a pretty extreme diet." If you drank the vegan Kool-Aid already, or are contemplating taking your first sip, here are a few more issues that you should consider.

Take Baby Steps

You wouldn't decide to run a marathon the day you started running, and the same holds true for going vegan. Instead of just dropping all the meat and cheese you were eating, consider taking small steps toward a more plant-based diet instead, Bruning says. "Any sort of lifestyle change that takes place overnight and makes a big sweeping change is typically not something that a person is going to stick with in the long term," she says.

Start by simply eating less meat, more vegetables, meat substitutes, and plant-based dairy alternatives, she says. Then, if you can comfortably make that adjustment, you can make a responsible, informed decision about whether or not the vegan diet is right for you. "Decreasing how much meat you’re eating and some of the animal products, instead of cutting them out completely, is a lot more balanced and a lot more realistic for people," Davis adds.

Eggs Are Not The Devil

If you're a vegetarian who eats eggs or an omnivore who loves yolk porn, perhaps the most disturbing claim in What The Health is that, "eating one egg per day is just as bad as smoking five cigarettes per day for life expectancy." If that gives you pause, that's because it's a wildly untrue and outdated belief, according to Davis.

The old logic used to be that eggs were unhealthy because they're high in cholesterol, but the Dietary Guidelines Advisory Committee has since updated its recommendation on eggs, Davis says. "This is the confusing thing about nutrition, and this is why there are so many different diets and fads: It's constantly evolving, so we have new research coming out all the time," she says. "And when you have new information, you change your mind and the recommendation."

Plus, it's never a good idea to take one specific food and draw an absolute conclusion about it, Bruning says. "Nutrition looks at your whole diet, and lifestyle factors, so to say that one egg is the same as five cigarettes would not be consistent with research."

It's A Very Restrictive Diet

While eating a more plant-based diet can, in a broad sense, be beneficial to people's health it needs to be taken on a case by case individual basis, Bruning says. For example, if you're someone who has a lot of food allergies, restricting your diet even more might not be the right thing for you to do, she says. "Even getting into a mental space where food is being restricted can be a negative thing for a lot of folks," she says.

If you're someone who has struggled with eating disorders in the past, it can be a triggering experience to associate yourself with a restrictive style of eating again, she says. "Living in this diet culture, where people have so many questions about 'good nutrition,' we need to keep in mind the mental health aspect of how people relate to food."

Eating Vegetables Is Always A Good Idea

The vegan diet obviously emphasises eating more fruits and vegetables, which is great, Davis says. "It's absolutely true that switching to a more plant-based diet can come with health benefits," Bruning says. But the benefits come from eating more fruits, vegetables, legumes, and seeds, which have higher levels of essential nutrients like fibre, fat, protein, and Omega-3 fatty acids, she says.

On the other hand, cutting out dairy and meat might not be blanket "good for you," Bruning says. There are a few "nutrients of concern," such as vitamin B-12 and calcium, that can easily become deficient in any scenario, but particularly with vegan diets, she says. "We want to make sure that folks are [getting adequate nutrition] when it comes to vitamin B-12 because that nutrient is not available in plant foods naturally," she says. "It takes quite a great deal of leafy greens to meet our calcium needs, and we'd have to look at some fortified alternatives." It's possible to be a "healthy vegan," it just requires knowledge and planning to do so, Davis says.

Be Open & Skeptical

Just because a study, a documentary, an article, or a friend on Facebook, says that being vegan is the healthiest option out there, doesn't necessarily mean that it is for you. The documentary, What The Health, tends to oversimplify and pervert some studies to push veganism, which makes it hard for regular people and experts to make an informed decision. "The biggest issue that I think most dietitians and physicians, people who have a background in the sciences, have is that it's really skewed what the research actually says," Davis says. "It creates confusion, and I would even call it fear-mongering."

If you've decided you want to give the vegan thing a try, consider meeting with a registered dietitian if possible, Bruning suggests. "That person is going to be able to help you look at what you eat now, and what you can change into this plant based alternative, that it keeps your nutrition adequate." And while the film might have shaken you, that's okay, "but they might not have the whole picture," Bruning says.

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

Kim Kardashian West Apologises For Anorexia Comments

You Shouldn’t Follow A Diet Just Because An Insta Blogger Told You To

Should We All Be Eating Aquafaba Butter Now?


16 Ways To Make Your Box Braids & Cornrows Look Even Cooler

$
0
0

We could go on and on about the many benefits of protective styles. They give your hair a break from hot tools and product buildup, plus they're so easy to maintain. Aside from the technical stuff, they also look really effing cool. We've already seen how Lupita Nyong'o has transformed the bob, but some people still want their long, flowing braids, twists, and faux locs for the spring — and we can't blame 'em. If you're going long, now is a great time to channel your inner African goddess and add beads to your look.

“Braids have been decorated since the beginning of time," César Ramirêz, Mizani's global artistic director, tells us. “I believe they're derived from a very old tribal tradition that has been passed down into fashion.”

He's certainly right about the latter: Disco divas like Patrice Rushen were known to rock them in the '70s, and hordes of imitators followed throughout the decades. We've seen mini resurgences of the look throughout the years, but now, they're back in a big way — and it can be yours, too. “I love shopping at [craft stores] for all sorts of beads, charms, and chains that I incorporate into hair," Ramirêz continues. “They can be sewn or clamped in. Even wrapping a thin wire in adds some texture. Have fun with it!”

Want to try it yourself? Scroll on for a dose of inspiration, and bookmark before you hit the craft store.

Read These Stories Next:
What You Need To Know Before Getting Box Braids
Double Braids & Futuristic Highlighter Ruled Coachella
The Difference Between Cornrows, Dutch Braids, & More

Solange returned to Hair by Susy's chair for a set of ivory-tipped plaits.

Photo: Via @renellaice.

Miami is hot, but Gabrielle Union's fresh set is even hotter.

Photo: Via @gabunion.

Nai'vasha Johnson cited Stevie Wonder as her inspiration for these lob-length braids on Yara Shahidi.

Photo: Via @naivashaintl.

Two-toned locs and colorful beads practically beg to be worn on holiday.

Photo: Via @magicfingersstudio.

Brb, running to the craft store now.

Photo: Via @curlfriendari.

"A little twist on a traditional cornrows/box braiding style," Ramiêz captioned an Instagram. "Added metal jewels, shells, and chains and now it's steampunk."

Photo: Via @cesar4styles.

Ebonee Davis channeled Marsha Hunt (who was the first Black model to cover British mag Queen) with this stunning look, done by Lacy Redway.

Photo: Via @lacyredway.

Y'all know Beyoncé loves her cornrows, so we're not surprised to see her debut this look.

Photo: Via @beyonce.

Cowrie shells and bow barrettes, for the culture.

Photo: Ben Gabbe/Getty Images/Tribeca Film Festival.

"Patrice is MOM," Solange captioned, giving a nod to Rushen.

Photo: Via @saintrecords.

Kelis is giving some Rick James realness for summer '17.

Photo: Via @theshaderoom.

You don't have to pile your decor on to get the look — sometimes simple is better.

Photo: Bertrand Rindoff Petroff/Getty Images.

It was only right for @miss__posh to team her metallic accessories with a killer highlight.

Photo: Via @miss__posh.

Add head jewellery for instant goddess status.

Photo: Christian Vierig/GC Images.

"In my (Nyenyo) caste, women only get piercings done with gold, because they say other metals don't heal! And babies that are pierced with gold are called BÉTÉ-BÉTÉ, which means : pierced with gold," the regal Khoudia Diop captioned a shot from her Ode to Senegal, her homeland.

Photo: Via @melaniin.goddess.

"I remember watching Michael Jackson's "Remember The Time " music video feeling inspired," stylist Roger Medina explained. "Taking elements from that video and infusing them with influences of Rick James, Erykah Badu, and Solange."

Photo: Via @rogermedinahair.

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

11 Bridal Styles To Try If You Have Natural Hair

How To Grow Out Dyed Hair

11 Of London's Cutest Hairdressers

Evan Rachel Wood, Star Of Westworld, Was Getting Paid Less Than The Men

$
0
0

On the heels of Westworld season 2, Evan Rachel Wood shared that she didn't receive pay parity with her male co-stars on the show's first two seasons. In fact, until now, Wood had yet to receive equal pay.

"I almost got emotional [when I got equal pay]," she told The Wrap in a video interview. I was like, ‘I have never been paid the same as my male counterparts. Never, never.'" For Westworld, the pay disparity is almost understandable, given the level of talent. Wood is working with Hollywood's finest — there's Anthony Hopkins, James Marsden, Ed Harris, and Jeffrey Wright, all heavy hitters. Not to mention, the female cast includes Thandie Newton and Tessa Thompson.

" Westworld, it's like, I get it," Wood explained."Because I'm like, well, you know, you're Anthony Hopkins. Or, like, Ed Harris. But I think now we're doing equal amounts of work and really hard work."

The interviewer pointed out that, Anthony Hopkins or now, Evan Rachel Wood is the face of the show. As host Dolores, Wood is the epicentre of the sprawling HBO series. She's in every advertisement and she narrated a good chunk of the first season.

"There's a lot of politics," Wood admitted. "But there's a lot of things that are now being talked about in a different way." For season three, though, someone did reach out to Wood to let her know specifically that she'd be on par with her co-stars.

"Somebody made a point of being like, 'Hey, you're getting this. And you deserve it,'" she said. Rachel Brosnahan, star of Marvelous Mrs. Maisel, was also present in the interview, and she added that sometimes, when it comes to pay parity, you just have to take what you can get.

"There's a lot that goes into negotiating salaries on projects. But also, sometimes, the truth of the matter is..."

"You're afraid to lose the project!" Wood interjected. At this point, it seems clear that Westworld isn't going anywhere — time to negotiate up, ladies.

Westworld season 2 starts on Sky Atlantic on 22nd April

Read These Stories Next:
What These New Westworld Regulars Mean For The Show
Westworld' s Robot Revolution Starts Soon — Here's How To Watch
April Click List: Everything The R29 Entertainment Team Is Watching This Month

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

How Real Is The Haunting of Hill House?

BBC's The Little Drummer Girl Is Your Next Sunday Night TV Obsession

Is The Sabrina Reboot Worth Your Time?

I Was Sexually Harassed At Work & Now I Feel Nervous Asking For A Raise

$
0
0

Welcome to Refinery29’s new career column Advice From A Nice Girl. Each month, readers will be asking Fran Hauser, bonafide boss and author of the book The Myth Of The Nice Girl , their hardest career quandaries, from managing your overly emotional boss to overcoming your biggest work fear. But this advice column comes with a twist — the reader has to take Fran’s advice and report back.

This month, a 29-year-old Silicon Valley product manager has a tough question about asking for a raise.

Question: I joined my company two-and-a-half years ago as a marketing associate. I was making a career pivot, and I had no experience. I didn’t feel like I had any room to negotiate, so I accepted an offer that was well below market value.

But I was really excited about the future of the company and grateful to gain new skills. I’ve since worked my way up to senior product manager, and I have significant responsibilities. I love my company, my team, and my role, and I’m really good at what I do. But I’m still being paid almost 40% below market value despite getting a raise.

Until recently, there hasn't been a formal review process so there wasn’t an opportunity to ask for more money. When I did ask for a raise in December, my boss said he would talk to the CEO. In January, I followed-up with the CEO, and he said he’d get back to me after talking to the COO. I haven’t heard anything since.

To make things more complicated, there was an issue at work where I was sexually harassed. Things turned out okay — the company has handled it well — but it’s made me feel really shy about asking for more money after causing the disruption.

Our executive team is finally instituting formal reviews — and by all accounts mine should be positive. I thought it could be a perfect time to revisit my raise. But I’m nervous. I was hoping you could give me some advice on what to do!”

Fran's advice: First, I’m sorry you had to experience sexual harassment at work. And I completely understand how the incident made you feel uneasy and shy to ask for more money. It sounds like you addressed the issue and things turned out okay, so don’t let that hold you back from asking for a raise. In your head, you need to separate one from the other. If anything, be proud of finding the confidence to speak up and let it embolden you as you approach the negotiation.

When it comes to making your case, the most important thing is to take the emotion out of your ask. Being armed with concrete data and evidence allows you to present the facts (not your feelings), and it’s really hard to argue with facts. Do your research and substantiate the 40% below market value rate you reference. Did you talk to peers, recruiters, do online research?

I know this sounds like you’re going up before the Supreme Court, but think of it this way — the CEO and the COO will make a decision based on business goals and the bottom line. You want to prove how vital you are to both. Think about the value you bring to the company. Start a list of your accomplishments or ways you’ve contributed to the company — be as specific as possible, like X social media campaign garnered attention from the media and earned the company a new client or your work on X project drove this much in revenue. By simply writing these down, it will remind you of the power you hold.

Also, studies have shown that women who negotiate communally, meaning with an eye toward what is best for the organization instead of just what is best for themselves, have a better chance of success. Based on your list of gold-star moments, choose three biggest talents you bring to the table in terms of creating value for the company. They could be an authentic voice on Twitter or the ability to get clients to quickly sign off on ideas. When it’s time to ask for a raise, these examples will remind you of why you deserve one and will serve as proof points during your conversation. The most compelling requests for raises I’ve received focus on the person’s impact and the concrete results she’s achieved.

If you’re nervous, research tells us that women actually outperform men when negotiating on behalf of someone else. Think about how you would approach the conversation if you were representing your best friend or your sister instead of yourself. What would you say to advocate for one of them? Then, take that confidence and conviction and apply it to you!

Think about how you would approach the conversation if you were representing your best friend or your sister instead of yourself.

Finally, take the fear out of no. What’s your backup plan if you don’t get the raise? Is there something else you can ask for? Have you been wanting to go back to school or start a side hustle? Make a list of alternative asks, whether it’s tuition reimbursement or the ability to allocate time to your passion. If they still say no, ask for a concrete timeframe for when your compensation will be reviewed again. If you’re getting the sense that you’re being ignored and not going to be brought to market rate soon, it might be a good time to start looking for a company that appreciates your value and pays you what you deserve.

Follow-Up: Crazy timing… the day after I reached out I was offered a raise. While I am happy to have received more money, it definitely was less than I expected (and still below market rate).

I asked my manager if it would be appropriate for me to negotiate for more compensation. He told me that it was up to me but 1) he hasn’t asked for a raise because he wanted to be respectful to where the company is (raising series A, trying to be lean), and the extra money wasn’t important to him; and 2) it would put him in an awkward position because he would have to go negotiate for me. He did say that if I chose to ask for more he would support me, but I should think about if that was important to me.

Now I am a people pleaser: I hate when anyone is disappointed in me, especially my manager. Additionally, I take my reputation in the office very seriously (especially after the sexual harassment issue and as one of three women in a 25-person office) therefore it made the most sense to drop the issue.

Your advice makes me realise that I should have handled that conversation completely differently. I was unable to articulate why I thought compensation was important, and I let my manager make me feel that asking for more money meant I wasn’t a team player. I didn’t come to the conversation armed with statistics or tangibles. And I definitely wasn’t confident! I have had imposter syndrome my entire product manager career, especially given how I started and the fact that I don't have a technical background. In my head, I was thinking that maybe I didn’t deserve more money because I wasn’t good enough.

After receiving your advice, I ended up taking some time to write down all the ways I add value to the company and talked with a couple engineers I work with about my strengths and weaknesses. I realised that I do add a lot of value and a unique perspective. In our next 1:1, I am going to talk to my manager about a timeframe when we can discuss this matter again and next time, I will be ready to make my case.

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

The Creator Of The 'Shitty Media Men' List Is Being Sued

How Much Cash Should You Give For A Wedding Gift?

Money Diary: A New Student In Nottingham At Freshers' Week

Google Is Mapping The #MeToo Movement

$
0
0

By now, you've seen the hashtag, read the reporting, and likely heard personal stories about Me Too. But what has the movement looked like on a global scale since it started seven months ago? Today, Google is mapping the movement with Me Too Rising, an interactive visualisation of search trends surrounding #MeToo, created in recognition of Sexual Assault Awareness Month.

Along the bottom of the site is a timeline that begins in early October, when The New York Times and The New Yorker published their first explosive, and now, Pulitzer Prize-winning investigations into Harvey Weinstein's decades of sexual harassment. As you move your cursor along that horizontal axis, the dates advance, until you reach the present day at the far right. Simultaneously, cities on the spinning globe above light up to represent the locations where the most people were searching for "Me Too" at any given time. Click on any location to see the top trending stories in that city.

With Me Too Rising, Google not only visualises the movement; it also recognises how the internet and online platforms served as a place for women to feel, see, and claim their power by connecting with other survivors and learning their stories.

"This is not only a significant moment in history; it’s a significant moment in internet history: Me Too marks a time when sexual assault survivors everywhere turned the internet into a platform for their voices and perspectives to be heard and respected," Malika Saada Saar, Google's Public Policy and Government Relations Senior Counsel, wrote in a post about Me Too Rising.

On the site, you'll also see a link to sexual assault resources, which include ways to get in touch with the Rape, Abuse & Incest National Network (RAINN) and the Trevor Project. In tandem with today's site launch, Google announced it will give £350,000 in grants to RAINN and Girls for Gender Equity, because, as Saar rightfully notes, "Although global awareness of sexual assault and harassment is a crucial first step, awareness alone cannot fix the problem."

Watch Tarana Burke, founder of the #MeToo movement, speak about Me Too Rising in the YouTube clip below.

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

These Are The Best Apps For Your New Apple Watch

How Brexit Could Affect Your Netflix & Spotify Subscriptions

The Best Photo Editing Apps You Didn't Know You Needed

The Disturbing Plastic Surgery Apps Being Aimed At Young Girls

$
0
0

Since the late ‘70s, we've been having a cultural debate around the negative effects of video games. It wasn't until games like Grand Theft Auto and Call of Duty became popular in the 2000s that researchers began seriously looking into how video-game violence affects children's psyches, specifically young boys. Now, in 2018, there’s a new breed of simulations on the market that are cause for concern: games that let children virtually perform plastic surgery, which are overwhelmingly targeted at young girls.

According to the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery 's 2017 survey, nearly 70% of people have considered getting a cosmetic procedure — double the amount since 2013. With plastic surgery on a rapid incline, it’s not surprising that hundreds of cosmetic augmentation apps exist. Browse the Apple app store, for example, and you’ll quickly find Facetune, which lets users erase blemishes and take a few inches off their waist, and FaceTouchUp, which allows you to see the results of a rhinoplasty procedure on yourself. But the problem isn’t necessarily the fact that apps like this exist on many popular distribution platforms (although we could certainly have that debate); it’s that some exist specifically for kids.

Yesterday, Today reported on a category of games, marketed for children as young as eight, involving cartoonish scenarios in which the user performs invasive surgery on women. While not all of the games are made by the same company, a significant amount are created by Bravo Kids Media. Face Surgery Simulator, High School Clinic Affair, and Princess Plastic Surgery are just some of the most disturbing. Here’s a quick rundown of what happens in Princess Plastic Surgery: A pretty princess was cursed by an evil witch and is now ugly beyond repair! The only way to reverse the curse is to undergo extensive plastic surgery that may include an eye lift, nose job, and lip injections — all performed by you, the player. She'll bruise, she'll cry, and once the bandages are gone, well, that's it... that's the game. Problematic much?

You might be convinced these types of games should be removed from all app distributors, and you’re certainly not alone. Parents are petitioning to censor any plastic surgery scenarios that might damage their child's developing self-image. But there's another side to consider: What if these simulations could potentially empower young girls to pursue professions in medicine?

Back in 2016, PLOS ONE published a study that found that male players of video games containing sexism and violence, like Grand Theft Auto, were more likely to identify with the character they were playing. So while Princess Plastic Surgery probably isn't great for anyone, it's also only one game of many — others involve playing veterinarians and dentists, and helping out patients in need. If the user empathises with the medical professional instead of the plastic surgery-addicted damsel in distress then games like these could have some positive effects.

In response to the recent controversy, a spokesperson from Apple tells Refinery29, “We do not want, nor allow, these types of apps on the store. We have rules in place against these apps and do not offer them on the App Store.” However, many from Bravo Kids Media are still available on Google and Amazon. A Google spokesperson tells us, “While we don’t comment on specific apps, we do have strict policies in place to prohibit apps in the Families collection on Google Play that promote negative self-image or low self-esteem, regardless of theme or intended user age group. We're taking the feedback from the community very seriously and are working to ensure that these apps are in compliance with our policies."

We’ve reached out Amazon and Bravo Kids and will update this post with their statements.

Read These Stories Next:
Why I Got A 15-Minute Non-Surgical "Nose Job"
Cardi B's Butt Injections Could Have Gone Horribly Wrong
I Got Plastic Surgery To Get Ahead In My Career

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

The Best Products For Getting Rid Of Acne Scars

These Serums Actually Work, According To Top Dermatologists

The Mistakes You're Making With Your Acne Scars — & How To Fix 'Em

Stranger Things Season 3 Is Already Even More Meta

$
0
0

While we may not be getting the next season of Stranger Things until 2019 (at least, according to star David Harbour), there's plenty of casting news happening right now to tide us over. Last month, E! Online reported that Maya Hawke, daughter of Uma Thurman and Ethan Hawke, is coming aboard for the show's third season, and now two more new faces are coming to Hawkins — except you've definitely seen them before.

As if Stranger Things isn't nostalgic enough, they've cast two iconic 80s and 90s actors to really drive the point home. According to Variety, Cary Elwes and Jake Busey are joining the series — Elwes, from a little known movie called The Princess Bride, and Busey, son of Gary, who starred in Starship Troopers and, more recently, Ray Donovan. The two will play Mayor Kline, a sleazy politician, and Bruce, a journalist for The Hawkins Post, respectively.

We don't know much else about what these new characters are up to next season, but we do have some details about the plot thanks to Shawn Levy, the show's producer.

"Mike and Eleven are going strong, so that's a relationship that continues, and same with Mad Max and Lucas. But, again, they're like 13 or 14-year-old kids, so what does romance mean at that stage of life? It can never be simple and stable relationships and there's fun to that instability," he said at a panel, according to The Hollywood Reporter. He also confirmed that Steve Harrington (Joe Keery) would continue to be a dad figure to the kids.

The season started shooting at the end of March, so we've just begun what is sure to be a long process of clues and hints and set photos that won't really tell us anything until the show returns in (fingers crossed) 2019.

Read These Stories Next:

Stranger Things ' Lead Makeup Artist On The Foods She Uses For Blood, Mud, & More
The Duffer Brothers' Attorney Condemns Plagiarism Lawsuit
The Stranger Things Cast Would Like To See This Hookup Happen & We're Not Sure How To Feel

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

How Real Is The Haunting of Hill House?

BBC's The Little Drummer Girl Is Your Next Sunday Night TV Obsession

Is The Sabrina Reboot Worth Your Time?

Why Please Like Me Needs To Be Your Next Streaming Binge

$
0
0

I have had many conversations about TV over the last few weeks, all of which have gone something like this.

"I need a new thing to watch. You know, something light and funny and easy that isn’t Friends."

"Have you watched Please Like Me on Amazon Prime? You should watch Please Like Me on Amazon Prime."

"What’s it about?"

"Suicide."

"... okay."

"And... parents. Family. Depression. Cooking. Um, mental hospitals. Sexuality. Houseshares. There’s a dog!"

I’ve tried to explain Please Like Me as, respectively, " Girls meets Love, but with likeable characters", " Grandma’s House but Australian", "a twentysomething About A Boy " and "a serious Flight of the Conchords, but without the music", none of which is even nearly accurate. But like all really great TV, it’s pointless to try and explain the magic. It just is. And I’m furious nobody made me watch it sooner.

Written by and starring comedian Josh Thomas, the loosely autobiographical dramedy centres around Josh, a 20-year-old living in Melbourne, as he navigates the dating world, begins his first relationships with men (girlfriend Claire breaks up with him in the opening scene, telling him: "I just think we’ve drifted. Also you’re gay.") and supports his mother through her struggles with bipolar disorder. From the first episode, after a suicide attempt involving "quite a lot of Panadol and half a bottle of Baileys", two things become clear: 1) that Debra Lawrence as Josh’s mum Rose gives a performance more nuanced and heartrending than many Oscar winners, and 2) that this show that isn’t afraid to laugh at, well, anything.

In its four short seasons, Please Like Me ticks off an impressive checklist of real talk. Wrapped up in the offbeat lols there’s death, divorce, grief, STIs, adultery, homophobia, self-harm, drugs, depression, racism, cancer, anxiety, polyamory, religion and an abortion. And it’s not a tragic abortion or a guilt-laden abortion, but cheerfully matter-of-fact in both emotion and visceral detail, with Josh yelling his friendly support through the toilet door. There are painfully accurate parent/child arguments, charming intergenerational friendships, and moments of truly perfect millennial-whispering.

"I can’t be her carer! I don’t know how to do caring!" whines Josh in a hospital corridor after seeing his mother. "I don’t even know how to care for myself. I never floss."

Please Like Me chews over some of life's meatiest themes but doesn’t do anything as try-hard as ‘tackle’ them. It simply serves them; sweet, soft and beautifully tender. Bad food analogies are an inevitable side-effect, I’m afraid, as it’s also a show that will make you hungry. Josh’s gastronomic passions are given nearly as much screen time as his romantic ones. Every episode is named after a dish ("Rhubarb and Custard"; "Puff Pastry Pizza"; "Horrible Sandwiches"), most start with a cooking montage, and many of the show’s best scenes take place around a table. Episode four of the final season, "Degustation", unfolds over all 15 courses of a fancy restaurant tasting menu, while "Burrito Bowl" is the penultimate episode, and the most devastating.

The show was applauded by critics for breaking new ground, particularly in its frank, fearless depictions of mental illness and, more joyfully, of gay sex and relationships. Groundbreaking depictions of gay sex and relationships, of course, tend to be the ones most similar to average depictions of hetero sex and relationships – that is, shown in full. Josh’s love scenes aren’t limited to angsty, doom-laden encounters or primly chaste cheek-pecking. Like so much else in Please Like Me, they’re honest, messy, genuinely sexy and often hilariously awkward.

There are smatterings of the surreal – not least wondering why Thomas, an Australian comedian on an Australian show set in Australia, appears to have a Welsh accent (the internet is full of confused fan theories but no conclusive answer. Maybe Wales’ sing-song intonation is to Melbourne hipsters what Aussie rising inflections are to young Brits? Anyway, you’ll just have to let it go) – and it can teeter on twee, but don’t let that put you off. Watch in fist-gnawing self-recognition as Josh’s best friend Tom dates a composite of every kooky gal you tried to be in your early 20s ("Of COURSE she has a turtle"), stages baby/dog fancy dress photoshoots, and invents genitalia-based games to while the hours away.

Watch it because it’ll make you nostalgic for an intimate student house share you never actually had. The kind where you crawl, platonically, into each other’s beds for morning pep talks and keep up a stream of rapid-fire, deadpan piss-taking – dialogue that in real life would earn you a month of passive-aggressive kitchen notes but which on screen just seems witty and adorable. It makes you realise just how rarely we see TV friendships that are stable and affectionate, not ripped apart by screenwriters for the sake of a little drama. I’d rather watch Josh barricade Tom in his room with furniture as punishment for nicking his bougie dinner ("You will rue the day you ate my truffled macaroni and cheese!") than another Marnie/Hannah/Jessa melodrama any day.

Watch it because at least once an episode, there’ll be a line so perfect you’ll want to pause and write it down on your phone notes to recycle at a dinner party. Watch it for the theme tune, the brutally catchy doo-wop number "I’ll Be Fine" by Clairy Browne & the Bangin' Rackettes, which I thought was an old gospel standard until I looked it up. In the context of the show, it does sound almost spiritual – an alternative hymn to the creed of simply keeping on going.

And whatever you do, watch it slowly. Resist the urge to binge, and savour each episode as if it were a portion of Josh’s coq au vin. Especially because Please Like Me executed the signature move of all truly classy TV shows: quitting while it’s ahead. Thomas announced last year that the programme won’t be returning for a fifth series.

"This show is so intensely personal, it recreates the most intimate moments of my life and lays them out for anyone to watch," he said in his Twitter statement. "Seeing how people have connected with this show has been tremendously confidence building for me and I’m really grateful for that."

So please, watch Please Like Me. You’ll be grateful too.

Read these next...

Why A Show About Women Con Artists Is So Weirdly Empowering
How Netflix Gave This Kitschy 1960s Sci-Fi Show A Feminist Makeover
The Pilot Episode Of Westworld Has Spoilers For Season 2

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

The More You Know About Busy Philipps, The Better

How Real Is The Haunting of Hill House?

BBC's The Little Drummer Girl Is Your Next Sunday Night TV Obsession


5 Women On The Benefits Of Having A Casual Fling

$
0
0

The good old-fashioned fling has a bad rap. We may be in an age of no-strings Tinder hookups and increasingly aware of the physical and mental health benefits of sex, but many people still turn their noses up at fleeting sexual relationships. More often than not, they're considered mere stepping stones en route to something more "serious" or, worse, as evidence that someone has commitment problems or even low self-esteem.

These impermanent relationships – whether they're one-night stands or last for weeks or a few months – are rarely considered valuable in and of themselves, but that may be misguided. Even very short-term, casual attachments can force us to be present in the moment and even helping us work out what we want from long-term partners. Here five women to tell us what they learned from their most momentous flings.

Yasmin, 32, had a four-month fling with a "beautiful, lush redhead" named Conor who she met at a bus stop at the end of a night out. She had just come out of an eight-year relationship and was still living with her ex, so they mostly went to his place.

Sometimes we'd go for a drink first, but more often than not I'd go over at the end of a night out. I always stayed over but would leave first thing in the morning. It was just sex; we didn't go on dates. We had sex on the kitchen worktop once – after I'd moved into my own place! – which was kinda hot. As it went on, though, he started to get more keen. Calling and texting loads, sending me Snapchats from the gym. He was a rebound for me and I wasn't interested, so I ended it.

I have really fond memories of those few months. It's such a cliché but this really was a case of "timing is everything". At any other moment in time, Conor and I wouldn't have crossed paths or if we had, I would've dismissed him. I needed something fun and non-committal, a palate cleanser. He was perfect. The main thing I learned was to be honest with myself when I'm not that into someone and to have the courage to end things before they go too far. I also realised how important sex is, for me, in any relationship. Like, dealbreaker-important.

I think everyone should have a fling after coming out of a long-term relationship. It gives you the space to clear your head and get used to having sex with another person without all the emotional, complicated stuff that comes with a serious relationship. Plus, it's a real confidence-boost. When you've slept with the same person for eight years (or however long), there's this fear: What if no one else wants me? A fling – where, let's be honest, they're into you for your body and that's it – puts paid to all that.

Louisa, 19, is a first-year student living away from home at university for the first time. Her previous relationships have lasted between a few months and two years, so she's now letting off steam as a single young woman in a new environment.

Since I started university, I've had a lot of one-night stands and two-time things, with a couple of more serious short-term relationships with guys from Tinder, which usually lasted a couple of weeks. They've all been mostly just sex, but there was one which wasn’t sexual at all and we just had a strong connection until he got too intense. But it was nice at the time.

Most of them were always going to be short-term things, but there was one I thought was going to be longer. I think it's beneficial to feel rejected and let down in short-term relationships – it gives you a thicker skin. It’s a lot easier to end something with someone you haven’t been with very long, and it teaches you the easiest and smoothest ways to go about it all.

Looking back, I'm glad I've been through it all because it’s definitely taught me some lessons, both good and bad, about relationships. I've learned that as you get older it takes longer to develop proper relationships. Romantic relationships developed much more quickly at school as you had shared histories, but university is like starting over. You can be anyone you want in a relationship.

Violet, 23, is a student living abroad for a work placement in Venice. She recently enjoyed a magical one-night stand with a 27-year-old British guy from Tinder and says she never wanted anything more.

He was hot as hell and when I saw he went to UCL, I swiped right. I was desperate for a taste of the English banter I was missing. So I sent him a foolproof opener saying that he didn't want me because I was trouble, with the requisite Rihanna GIF. He replied straightaway, saying he'd pick me up in his boat in an hour. I was bowled over, first by the offer of a pick-up in a boat in Venice – I'd been saying, half jokingly, that I needed a short-term man with a boat to ferry me round the Veneto. I was doubly bowled over by his forwardness. I love a man with confidence.

When we met I realised he was an absolute snack. He then lifted me into his boat and took me to a great bar he knew near San Marco. On the way there I found out he was Venetian and had been to boarding school in the UK – he was exactly my type. We passed the Palazzo Ducale on the Grand Canal under the moonlight and he kissed me. I remember thinking that nothing as cinematic would ever happen to me again. He bought a bottle of prosecco at the bar before we left, then we went to his rooftop flat with stunning views all over Venice and he made love to me, twice. He held me and was so complimentary – something English guys never really are, even when dating more seriously. We had a cigarette in bed afterwards. I felt like a 19th-century countess. He drove me home in his boat at 4am as we both had plans the next morning and we kissed the whole way. He said that if we were geographically synchronised we should see each other again and I think we both knew we wouldn't, but the sentiment was nice.

The night was perfect and is enshrined in my mind like a film. If we'd seen each other again, the magic might not have been there. This is one night that was exquisite and singular, no strings attached, and it taught me how great it can be to let yourself go and give in to the moment. I'm a self-assured feminist, but the fact he was so smooth, kind and cool was ideal.

Rachel, a 26-year-old PhD student living in London, has had a string of short-term relationships in the last few years.

While spring flings might be the devil in disguise for some people, for me they're definitely a blessing. Yes, they can induce minor heartbreak, and yes, I always go for the wrong guy – but I’m convinced they’re also good for you. For starters, the prospect of one encourages me to take better care of myself, and sex with a new man is always fun. It’s fresh, it’s exciting and inevitably educational. But there’s more to it than that – short-term relationships make me feel carefree and, most importantly, they allow me to explore and go for guys I wouldn’t normally go for.

I've learned many lessons over the years. Fling One – let’s call him Jack. Jack was great. Fun, banterous, and wild in bed. Desperately romantic but then, boom. He ghosted me. I learned how to spot a player.

Fling Two – Chad, let's dub him. Chad was sweet, an absolute joker, and had the body of an Adonis. We laughed, we joked and had great sex, but never had emotional intimacy. This taught me the importance of finding a true connection.

Fling Three – let’s call him Bobby. Bobby was young, immature, carefree, and smoking hot – but terrible in bed. From this experience I learned that looks aren’t everything and maturity really does go a long way. Armed with all this knowledge, farmed through many a spring fling, I’m super excited for spring – and summer – 2018.

Jennifer, a 25-year-old product manager from the UK who is now based in the US, had a three-month relationship with a guy from work after a serious relationship ended. She's since got back together with her ex but is grateful for her short-term micro-romance.

About 18 months ago, my boyfriend of one year broke up with me. I wanted to stay single for at least three months after that but literally the day I left my ex's apartment, I saw a strikingly good-looking guy in a work meeting whom I'd never met before. We didn't speak, but we clearly noticed each other and chatted at a work event that evening. We went out for shisha and drinks together that night and I ended up going home with him. I didn't think it would go anywhere – and wasn't intending it to – but over the next three months I went back and forth between London and New York, where he lived, and saw him.

We were both tentative, me because I'd been hurt so recently and him because he'd been screwed over by long-distance relationships, so we never "put a label on it" or were even exclusive. He told me he loved me when we were drunk, but later apologised and took it back. Before he had the chance to say it sober, my ex came out of the woodwork and we figured things out. But the days spent running around New York with my fling, without even thinking about whether we'd stay together the following week, are some of my best memories.

I'm beyond grateful for the experience, for a bunch of reasons. Most importantly, I got to know – and love – a wonderful person, in a relationship that was only ever good, except for the very end, which was incredibly brief. Whereas in a longer relationship, you have many, many hard times, short-term relationships are mostly good.

I'm also grateful that I had the chance to experience a very different type of relationship from what I'd been used to. Because of what I knew about his past – with the long-distance stuff not working out – I didn't think he was open to trying to have a committed relationship, and we never talked about it. This meant I took every week in isolation, never worrying about the future and living in the moment in the truest sense.

Selfishly, too, I'm glad that it happened at a time when I was broken. It gave me the confidence that several months of pain in a bad relationship had taken. He was genuinely interested in me and thought the things I'd achieved were amazing, but I also realised I could survive something really awful, and function within a different dynamic from what I'd always thought I wanted. There's also a freedom you can't get from a long-term relationship. I didn't have a partner to compromise with but a companion to have fun with. Though there wasn't the stability that comes with a long-term relationship, we almost had the best of both worlds.

Read These Next:

30 Things To Know About One-Night Stands From People Who Love Them
So, You Hooked Up With An Old Fling — Now What?
29 Things Every 20-Something Should Know About Sex

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

Swipe Left: How To Avoid Matching With A Gaslighter Online

3 Asexual Women Tell Us About Dating When You Have No Interest In Sex

How To Get Through Calling Off An Engagement

17 Brands Working On Making Our Wardrobes More Ethical

$
0
0

For many, the idea of ethical fashion and sustainable clothing unfortunately still conjures up images of hemp and incense. However, over the past few years there has been a significant shift in the image of conscious fashion, with the birth of brands committed to producing clothing that is both ethically made and beautifully designed.

Slowly but surely, fashion brands are being held responsible for their impact on human life and the environment. This is thanks, in part, to international designers like committed vegan Stella McCartney – whose fabric innovation, sleek designs, and collaborations with brands like adidas have reinvented the concept of cruelty-free fashion – as well as the influence of the internet in spreading activism and raising awareness around our consumer habits faster than ever before.

While shopping ethically can be problematic (when prices are higher due to better production, and people morally judge you for shopping on the high street, it becomes a class issue), there’s a growing number of small, independent brands that stay true to creating clothes you’ll want to wear while implementing fairness every step of the way. And while fast fashion brands have a long, long way to go to overhaul the damaging and dangerous practices they currently employ, more are making positive changes.

So say goodbye to the idea that ethical equals beige calico maxi dresses, and hello to suede Chelsea boots, statement sleeves and box fresh trainers. From feminist and Photoshop-free platforms to brands working with global artisans to keep traditional craft alive, here’s our roundup of where to go to make your wardrobe more conscious.

Brother Vellies

Founded by Aurora James, Brother Vellies produces some of our favourite footwear. The name comes from the colloquial ‘vellies’, meaning ‘velskoen’ – the modern-day equivalent of a desert boot, which was the brand’s first design created by artisans in its South African workshop.

Spending her time travelling everywhere from Nigeria and Kenya to Morocco, James began the brand in order to share her favourite traditional African designs with people, and to create sustainable jobs within the region. Artisans are local, traditional craft is preserved, and the brand uses eco-friendly practices, such as vegetable rather than chemical dyeing, handmade production to reduce energy consumption, and large-batch shipping to lower its carbon footprint.

Brother Vellies Kaya Suede Boots, £440, available at Matches Fashion

Edun

If you can get past the fact that this brand was cofounded by Bono, you’ll see that Edun has successfully bridged the gap between artisan and high fashion. With cofounder Ali Hewson, the singer established Edun in 2005 to work with manufacturers across Africa to create clothing and accessories that reflect local craftsmanship. Part of the LVMH group, 95% of the brand’s production is carried out in sub-Saharan Africa, and in 2013 it presented a collection made solely with cotton produced by its Conservation Cotton Initiative Uganda.

Founded in 2009, the CCIU supports over 8,500 farmers displaced by Ugandan civil war, offering funding and commercial and technical advice on sustainable methods of cotton production. While some sustainable or ethical labels have struggled to shake the hippyish connotations, Edun has kept its aesthetic vision sharp.

Edun Canvas Midi Skirt, £428, available at Edun

Maiyet

Partnering with organisations like Nest and Positive Luxury, Maiyet don’t mess around when it comes to ethical production. In fact, the sleek clothing and accessories brand are innovators, too, collaborating with nomad goat herders in Outer Mongolia to create the world’s first ethically sourced and environmentally sustainable cashmere yarn.

Boasting relationships with some of the rarest-skilled artisans around, you’ll spot appliqué from Kolkata, leather from Florence, block printing from Jaipur, fil coupé needlework from Varanasi, and weaving from La Paz in the beautiful clothes they sell. Maiyet breathes new life into ancient and traditional crafts to deliver luxury fashion with a heart.

Maiyet Arc Hammered Silk-Satin Dress, £515, available at Net-A-Porter

Veja

Veja is living proof that you don’t need over-hyped influencers or in-your-face branding to achieve success in the ever-evolving world of trainers. Veja – meaning ‘look’ in Brazilian Portuguese – urges you to ‘look beyond the sneakers, look how they are made’, and its founders, school friends Sébastien Kopp and François Morillon, are serious about ethical practices and social responsibility every step of the way.

They work with Ateliers Sans Frontières, an initiative that rehabilitates ex-offenders and drug users, in their warehouse and logistics teams; use wild rubber latex (tapped by 60 families of rubber tappers in the Amazon rainforest) for the soles of their shoes; use a green electricity company, as opposed to the French standard EDF; and the pesticide-, GMO-, and fertiliser-free cotton is bought from cotton growers in Brazil for a fair price. Producing slick, contemporary shapes and much sought-after styles, Veja shows other brands just how it’s done.

Veja Holiday Silk Gold Sable Trainers, £130, available at Trouva

Rêve En Vert

Rêve En Vert operate under four main pillars: sustainable style, quality, respect, and longevity. Founded in 2013 by Cora Hilts and Natasha Tucker as a move against fast fashion and overconsumption, the platform’s focus is on curation and timeless style, with a firm eye on social and environmental wellbeing.

Exclusively selling designers who employ responsibility and operate with respect for people and the planet, items on the site are organic, remade, local and fair, and have quality style that comes from a place of consciousness. From Filippa K and By Signe to Mara Hoffman, Rêve En Vert has positioned itself as the go-to destination for luxury fashion with a conscience.

Fonnesbech Adwoa Jacket, £320, available at Rêve En Vert

lemlem

lemlem (which means 'to flourish and bloom' in Amharic) was launched by supermodel Liya Kebede after a visit to her native Ethiopia. Speaking with traditional weavers whose craft the global market had left behind, Kebede was inspired to set up the platform as a way to create jobs for talented makers across Africa and bring their creations to the rest of the world. Working with yarn spinners in Ethiopia, crocheters in Kenya, embroiderers in Rwanda, and knitters in Madagascar, the brand produces womenswear and homeware pieces.

lemlem doesn’t just provide economic opportunities and safe spaces to work. The brand also tackles the high number of deaths during pregnancy and childbirth in Africa each year. Working with the continent’s largest health charity, Amref Health Africa, to train midwives, host maternal health education programmes, and upgrade maternity clinics, lemlem places women’s rights and safety at the centre of its mission.

lemlem Edna Maxi Sun Dress, £300, available at Net-A-Porter

Mango Committed

Fast fashion brands are increasingly aware of the need and demand for principled and conscious production. This year, Mango launched Committed, a 45-piece sustainable unisex collection, in a bid to increase its ethical and eco responsibility. Partnering with manufacturers in Morocco, Portugal and Turkey, the collection is made up of repurposed and organic materials, such as cotton, recycled polyester and Tencel.

Made up of dreamy shirts and boilersuits fit for your workwear or holiday wardrobes, the capsule collection is part of the Take Action project, which will see the brand measure and reduce its water footprint, and put into place a business model based on environmentally friendly processes. There's certainly headway to be made by high street retailers, but this is a big move in the right direction.

Mango Committed Interwoven Cord Skirt, £39.99, available at Mango

Birdsong

Birdsong began in 2014 when founders Sarah and Sophie met and sold products made by women at the charities they worked for. Using friends and activists as models, they have a strictly no-Photoshop, no-sweatshop policy. Fast-forward to grants, BBC coverage and a wildly successful crowdfunder, and Birdsong now sells in 18 countries.

Working with Knit & Natter groups in Enfield, low-income migrant mothers in Tower Hamlets, and Brick Lane seamstresses, the brand is dedicated to working with women's groups to put amazing skills to good use for fair pay, while bringing gorgeous handmade clothing and jewellery to their audience.

Birdsong Organic Cotton Twill Hardwick Trousers, £85, available at Birdsong

Proud Mary

Founded by Harper Poe in 2008 after spending time in South America, Proud Mary produces global textiles through exploring age-old traditional craft methods. Having worked with 30 different artisanal groups over nine years, the brand has also partnered with global organisations like the World Bank, USAID, and Urban Outfitters.

From Mexico and Mali to Peru and the Dominican Republic, Proud Mary ensures a sustainable income for its artisans via consistent orders and workshop expansion. In the face of 11 million displaced Syrians over the last five years, the design and craftsmanship at the heart of the country has been threatened; Proud Mary is now working with a Damascus-based organisation which provides skills training for women there. You’ll find everything from brightly coloured bags to rich cotton cushion covers on site.

Proud Mary Boca Chica Clutch, £89, available at Proud Mary

AURIA

AURIA was founded by Central Saint Martins graduate Diana Auria back in 2013. A proud and vocal advocate of responsible fashion, the designer has given talks on the subject at The Royal Society of Arts, and created sustainable projects with Selfridges and Sony. Creating the kind of swimwear you'd book a holiday to wear, she's collaborated with fellow designers Ashley Williams and Marta Jakubowski.

"In today's world we have many choices. As a designer, from sourcing materials to paying close attention to every step of your supply chain. As a consumer, what you buy and knowing where it came from," says the brand's website. Made in England and with recycled fabrics that utilise discarded fishing nets and other waste, AURIA stays true to its values without compromising on contemporary and fresh design.

Ashley Williams x AURIA Swimsuit, £68, available at AURIA

ASOS Made in Kenya

While the fast fashion giant has a long way to go when it comes to sustainable and ethical production, one initiative creating a positive impact is its Made in Kenya range. An ongoing collaboration with SOKO, a manufacturer based in Kenya's Rukinga Wildlife Sanctuary, its SS17 offering includes sketches by children at a local primary school printed on kimonos and T-shirts, alongside denim made under fair trade standards.

Established in 2009 by Joanna Maiden, SOKO is located in an area of Kenya that has the highest unemployment rate in the country, as well as large numbers of HIV/AIDS, sex work and wildlife poaching. Offering an alternative means to live – through training, free medical care and a pre-school for employees' children – the organisation enables women to earn a wage safely. To top it all off, in 2012 SOKO relocated to a purpose-built eco-factory, which minimised its environmental impact significantly, thanks to a roof that reuses rainwater and ventilation gaps that reduce the demand for electricity.

ASOS Made in Kenya Cold Shoulder Maxi Dress in Ditsy Floral, £68, available at ASOS

Lowie

Lowie was founded by Bronwyn Lowenthal 15 years ago. 'In an industry that often profits from exploitation, Lowie aims to be different'. From recycled cotton to ethically sourced wool, chemical-free leather to family-run crochet workshops in Eastern China, all of the materials used for Lowie's pieces are sustainable and ethical.

Selling cute prints and stylist sportswear, there's a range of pieces available in their online shop as well as at their flagship in London's Herne Hill.

Lowie Under The Same Sun Palm Print Crop Top, £69, available at Lowie.

Gather&See

Gather&See offer a plethora of brands that operate their businesses in a responsible way. Alicia Taylor and Stephanie Hogg established the platform out of frustration at the lack of availability of ethical clothing. All the brands you can shop on their site match up with its five main pillars: Fair Trade, Organic, Eco-Friendly, Small Scale Production, and Heritage.

Currently stocking 43 brands that work with artisans across the globe, Gather&See don't compromise on style: we love this navy geometric dress from Riyka.

Riyka Roxy Jo Dress, £145, available at Gather&See.

Pink City Prints

Molly Russell stumbled across a fabric market in Jaipur – India’s Pink City - and was so inspired by the ancient crafts and techniques that she founded Pink City Prints in 2016. After studying at Glasgow School of Art, Russell now spends half her time in India working alongside a group of artisans who help to bring her ideas to life.

All the fabric used in Pink City Prints is locally sourced cotton or silk, and the brand uses traditional Indian methods such as block-printing, Indigo, and hand embroidery to create fresh, modern prints and textures. The collection includes everything from clothing and lifestyle accessories.

Pink City Prints Rah-Rah Dress, £99, available at Pink City Prints.

Matt & Nat

Canadian brand Matt & Nat is inspired by material and nature, and are your go-to label for cruelty free sleek accessories. "From the start, being committed to not using leather or any other animal-based materials in our designs felt natural to us". Offered in boutiques across Canada, the USA, UK, Japan, Germany and Australia, they produce everything from minimalist satchels to everyday clutches.

"Each season, we continue to explore new innovative ways to remain sustainable and eco-friendly. Over the years, we've been experimenting with different recycled materials such as recycled nylons, cardboard, rubber and cork." For 10 years, they've been committed to making their bag linings from 100% recycled plastic bottles, too.

Matt & Nat Obe Bag, £88, available at Matt & Nat.

Lindex

Lindex operate an ongoing sustainable denim initiative, using just 2 litres of water in the washing process of their denim, as opposed to the 50-70 litres used across the industry. Developed in collaboration with Spanish denim consultants Jeanologia, the 63-year old Scandi brand combines the use of recycled cotton and polyester with innovative air and laser technology in their Even Better Denim range, pledging to make 80% of their clothes through sustainable processes by 2020.

Whilst the Even Better Denim collection may have launched in 2016, Lindex have been working with their suppliers since 2014, screening their denim production to grade the environmental impact and managing to reduce their denim water consumption by 45%.

Lindex Straight High Jeans With Pearls, £39.99, available at Lindex

Kings of Indigo

Since 2012, Kings of Indigo have been producing denim with a conscience. Ranked the #1 most sustainable denim brand in Europe, 90% of its materials are sustainable and made from recycled cotton and reworked denim. It uses 50% less water than most denim brands, and 40% of the energy used at their head quarters is solar powered.

The brand doesn't cut down on style, though. From patchwork to flares and frayed hems, their womenswear jeans offering is cutting edge. They also create shell tops, dresses and duster jackets, placing them as your ultimate destination for guilt-free denim.

Kings of Indigo Regan Patchwork Bell Bottom Jeans, £254, available at Kings of Indigo.

Filippa K

Combining sleek tailoring with contemporary sportswear, Filippa K produces everything from boxy denim jackets to minimalist midi dresses. Founded way back in 1993, the brand has made its name as a leader in Scandi design, bringing out four collections each year: womenswear, menswear and Soft Sport, a line of chic workout gear.

Filippa K works on its Front Runners - garments that are given thorough life-cycle assessments, testing each phase of the piece's construction against sustainability standards. From the raw material to how the brand's customers recycle their clothing, the brand takes a different material to focus on each time - wool being its latest venture - with the aim of making its whole collection sustainable by 2030.

Filippa K Oversized Denim Jacket, £205, available at Filippa K.

¢HNGE

A pioneer for conscious streetwear, ¢hnge is a clever consumer revolution. The ethos goes, what is left over and reused can transform our society and environment. The brand aims to create a new economy that operates on sustainable, transparent production.

All clothing is made from 100% organic cotton, uses recycled packaging and leaves no carbon footprint. ¢hnge is committed to donating half of all profits to individuals and charities that advocate for positive social and environmental progress, including The Malala Fund, Pencils for Promise, Charity Water and Acumen.

Two

Founded in 2010 by designer Monica Patel-Cohn, Two is a collection of ready to wear summer pieces made from Indian sarees and textiles. The brand is built on high quality hand-woven fabrics made by artisans in a small production. Two's one of a kind approach to production saves 1 ton of CO2 emissions per year. Every purchase directly supports local weavers, artisans and designers in India.

Two Handwoven Gorgeous Dhaka Caftan, £348.20, available at Two New York.

Soraya Hennessy

Soraya Hennessy's eponymous accessories collection offers unique, entirely handmade mochilas, messenger bags and beach totes. The Venezuelan based brand produces bold, colourful designs crafted from hand weaving techniques that are native to Hennessy's family heritage. Small scale production and a focus on tradition helps to reduce the carbon footprint.

Soraya Hennessy Fringe Boho Bag, £106.61, available at Soraya Hennessy.

More from Refinery29's Fashion Conscience Week:

The Founder Of Nest On Making Fashion Production Fair

How Can You Actually Make The Fashion Industry More Responsible?

From Field & Factory To Shop Floor: The Journey Of Your Clothes

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

Never Worry About What To Wear To Work Again With These 16 Dresses

How This Dutch Fashion Brand Is Taking Ballroom Culture Global

"Trans Is Not A Trend": Maxim Magnus On Being A Role Model In Fashion

I Feel Pretty Review: The Anti-Makeover Movie

$
0
0

The big makeover scene, in which a plain, seemingly ordinary woman undergoes a sudden physical transformation, raising her up from ugly duckling to fairy tale princess, is a tried (tired?) and tested movie trope. Pretty Woman took a curly-maned sex worker in a crop top and thigh high boots, and made her a lady with a red silk gown and anti-frizz lotion; The Princess Diaries transformed a high school girl into literal royalty by tweezing her eyebrows; She's All That turned a nerd into a hottie worthy of the most popular boy in school by removing her glasses.

In some ways , I Feel Pretty, written and directed by Abby Kohn and Marc Silverstein and starring Amy Schumer, falls into that same narrative pattern. The difference is that in this case, the transformation takes place inside the main character's head. There is no physical makeover, because really, she doesn't need one.

Schumer plays Renee Bennett, a New Yorker whose deep insecurities about her appearance have held her back from reaching her potential, both professionally and in her personal life. She works for Lily LeClaire, the beauty company of her dreams, but is hidden away in a Chinatown basement with the IT developer. Her best friends, Jane (Busy Philipps) and Viv (Aidy Bryant), are supportive, but fail to understand why Renee can't accept herself as the strong, independent woman that she is and move on. It's an interesting role for Schumer, who's known for her extreme confidence in her standup comedy and persona on Inside Amy Schumer, but she sells it.

Everything changes though, when Renee takes a bad fall during a SoulCycle class and hits her head. (A nightmare scenario that is all too real for anyone who has ever struggled with a spin clip.) When she wakes up, dazed, confused, and missing a chunk of ponytail, she takes one look in the mirror and gasps: She's beautiful! Of course, this is just the concussion talking. Renee looks just as she's always looked; it's her own perception that's changed.

This twist on the traditional makeover storyline makes I Feel Pretty feel especially contemporary. We're living in a moment where the conversation around beauty has shifted gears, focusing on the importance of wellness, self-care and so-called inner beauty as the real way to join the ranks of the beautiful people. Of course, that doesn't mean women aren't constantly being harangued with competing messaging: Don't starve yourself, eat healthy — but don't be fat; Embrace your acne — but here's how to cover it up; Curly hair is magical — but only if you straighten it first and then careful re-curl each strand with a scaldingly hot wand in order to achieve peak beach-y muss. It's that inability to ever feel true satisfaction with oneself, to always strive for more attractive, more glamorous, more stylish, that I Feel Pretty seeks to make light of. And there, it does succeed.

Renee's delusion that she's the new Gigi Hadid enables her to find the strength to apply for a position in Lily LeClaire's Fifth Avenue headquarters. Her extreme confidence, which remember, doesn't match what we are conditioned to believe her looks call for, attracts a nice, funny, genuine guy (Rory Scovel, delightful and goofy as ever). Everything is suddenly going Renee's way. And of course, it goes to her already bruised head. Her friends, who have always treated her the way she's yearned to be treated, suddenly aren't good enough; why hang with them when she can now gain entry to the secret clubs in the back of shady dim sum restaurants, courtesy of her shiny beauty industry friends?

I Feel Pretty exposes the vapid emptiness of a looks-based existence. But it also goes a step further in positing that even the beautiful people are plagued with the same concerns as the normals. Renee's boss, Avery LeClaire (Michelle Williams), the blonde, ethereal socialite who has inherited the run of her grandmother's company is everything Renee has strived to be. And yet, she herself struggles with a squeaky, high pitched voice and vocal fry that makes her sound like a 6-year-old in high heels rather than a powerful executive. (Williams, incidentally, is perfection in this role, which showcases her impressive range and gives her the chance to be funny. She should be cast as funny more often!) Similarly, Renee's SoulCycle friend, played by Emily Ratajkowksi, may get hit on by random guys at Duane Reade, but she's struggling to get over a bad breakup. This would all feel trite, however, if Schumer didn't convey a true and messy emotion in reaction to these two seemingly perfect women. Her reply to Ratajkowsi's character's admission of low self-esteem captures that mood perfectly: "I want to punch you in your dumb face," she says, in a tone that conveys envy, relief, and sympathy all in one go.

Kohn and Silverstein's script is pretty much what you'd expect from a Schumer project. The dialogue is snappy, deprecating, and real, something that's not always the case for comedies about female insecurities. The action moves along at a brisk pace, interjected with upbeat songs, including Meghan Trainor's "Me Too," a veritable feelin' yourself anthem. But the co-directors also know when to slow things down, letting the camera linger quietly during more emotional scenes, like when Renee strips down in front of her mirror, her Spanx digging into her back as she examines her body with ever increasing frustration.

Still, the movie isn't perfect. Renee's experience is definitely that of a white, privileged woman who has the time and resources to worry about how she looks on a minute level. The lack of diversity in the film makes it far less inclusive than it should be, an omission that dilutes the message somewhat. What's more, while Schumer's character is given the leeway to fully explore her insecurities and potential, the same cannot be said for co-stars Bryant and Philipps, whose characters feel unnecessarily flat for such gifted performers.

The fact that Schumer herself fits into many of the prescribed beauty standards that the film is fighting against, is a point that has been made many times since the film's trailer dropped in February. And it's true, the trailer could do a better job of showing that Renee isn't actually the butt of the joke. But, despite what the initial —  undeserved — backlash would suggest, I Feel Pretty isn't designed to be taken that seriously. In fact, to do so is to deprive yourself of a movie that is, all in all, funny, cathartic, and more than a little bit moving.

I Feel Pretty is out in cinemas on May 4

Read These Stories Next:

Amy Schumer Wants I Feel Pretty To Heal You

Why I Feel Pretty Doesn't Deserve A Backlash

Amy Schumer Tells R29 Why Being Famous Is Still Really Weird

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

This A Star Is Born Merch Is Somehow Better Than The Movie

Jamie Lee Curtis On Halloween's Undying Horror, Trauma, & The Final Girl Myth

Anne Hathaway Loves A Star Is Born, Too — Now Can She & Gaga Get Their Own Film?

H&M's New Sustainable Collection Is The Best Yet

$
0
0

Today, H&M launches its Conscious Exclusive 2018 collection and, boy, are we thrilled. The pieces are more elevated than ever before, offering sumptuous jacquard fabrics and delicate dresses fit for summer weddings and garden parties alike.

The collection's aesthetic was inspired by the home of 19th-century Swedish artists Karin and Carl Larsson, with its green walls and ceilings, red accented furniture and abundance of botany, both real and illustrated. H&M's design team interpreted this artists' paradise to create a line bursting with intricate patterns and fabrications, hyper feminine shapes, and romantic finishes.

H&M's Conscious collections repurpose and recycle fabric to minimise waste and bring sustainable, technological innovations to our wardrobe. This time around, the brand has introduced two new materials to its line: recycled silver and ECONYL®, a 100% regenerated nylon fibre made from fishnets and other nylon waste join organic linen, cotton and silk, TENCEL™ and recycled polyester.

“It is a great thrill to introduce two new sustainable materials into the collection," H&M's creative advisor, Ann-Sofie Johansson says. "By creating gorgeous lace made of ECONYL® and beautiful jewellery crafted from recycled silver, we continue to stretch the boundaries of sustainable fashion. Also, the work of Karin Larsson took on a lot of significance, her stylised motifs, bold compositions and use of colour throughout the house were ahead of its time. She was such a strong woman and it’s that spirit that we channelled.”

The lookbook, shot by fashion photographer Mikael Jansson, stars Aamito Lagum, Giedrė Dukauskaitė and original super Christy Turlington, who has been a fan of the brand's sustainable offering for some time. “Ever since I learned about this collection I’ve been really impressed by what it stands for and the designs are equally appealing," Turlington explained. "Fashion and sustainability is no longer a contradiction in terms, and I think reusing and recycling is an important initiative across fashion. It’s really inspiring to see such fashion-forward designs being made from recycled materials.”

Our standout pieces from the drop? The show-stopping jacquard-patterned green dress, perfect for weddings; the silk dress in the same print, ideal for work-to-rooftop bar; the black and navy jacquard suit, which looks fabulous over a T-shirt or a lace black cami; and the silk-blend kaftan, which we plan on wearing in the city as well as on the beach.

Click through to find our favourite pieces from the new collection, and shop knowing your purchases are as sustainable as they are spring-perfect.

Launching on 19th April, the Conscious Exclusive 2018 collection is available in selected stores worldwide and online at hm.com.

Lyocell and Silk Dress, £69.99

Short Lyocell-Blend Dress, £79.99

Lyocell and Silk Top, £49.99

Lyocell and Silk Shirt, £49.99

Lyocell-Blend Blouse, £59.99

Lace Blouse, £79.99

Oversized Shirt, £59.99

Oversized Shirt, £59.99

EcoNyl® Dress, £119.99

Jacquard-Patterned Jacket, £99.99

Silk-Blend Kaftan, £149.99

Lyocell and Silk Dress, £99.99

Silk Dress, £139.99

Patterned Dress, £99.99

Jacquard-Patterned Dress, £149.99

Long Linen-Blend Dress, £119.99

Jacquard-Weave Skirt, £49.99

Lyocell and Silk Top, £49.99

Lyocell and Silk Top, £49.99

Long Lace Dress, £229.99

Jacquard-Patterned Trousers, £79.99

Lyocell and Silk Trousers, £69.99

Large Lyocell-Blend Scarf, £24.99

Lace Briefs, £8.99

Non-Wired Lace Bra, £17.99

Satin Mules, £69.99

Slingbacks, £79.99

Silver Earrings, £39.99

Long Silver Earrings, £39.99

Sparkly Stone Earrings, £19.99

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

Never Worry About What To Wear To Work Again With These 16 Dresses

These Trench Coats Are Anything But Boring

15 Pairs Of Hiking Boots That Can Be Worn Off The Mountain

The Comments About Meghan Markle's Shoulders Make For Depressing Reading

$
0
0

Can people just let Meghan Markle live? The former Suits actor attended an event wearing a sleeveless dress yesterday, a choice that's attracted a wide variety of absurd negative attention.

At yesterday's Commonwealth Youth Forum in London (where the temperature was around 25C), Markle wore a strappy pinstripe midi dress by Altuzarra, with a blazer by Camilla and Marc draped over her shoulders, which she took off once inside. An appropriate and unremarkable outfit for an uncharacteristically warm spring day, you might think.

But no. Online, on both Twitter and Instagram, Markle has been criticised for both having, and exposing, her shoulders. While it's not common for royals to show their shoulders during official engagements, the reaction to Markle's skin has been disproportionate to say the least.

Beneath an Instagram post with a picture from the event posted on Kensington Palace's official account, a dispiritingly large number of people vented their disapproval at her outfit choice, with many making jibes about her "commoner" status, dubbing her an "attention seeker" and saying should would've looked more at home at Coachella. "I'm no fashionista but shouldn't her shoulders be covered? Seems a tad underdressed for the occasion," said @melissacolbourne.

"Her dress does not seem appropriate for the occasion. She looks like the odd one out who didn't get the dress code memo!!," said user @makeup_by_zumra.

Meanwhile, @alevonen had some even more prescriptive words: "The Brits know how to dress to the occasion and very rarely bare their arms in a sundress unless on vacation. This dress would look appropriate with a blazer on but not on the shoulders."

Many also took the opportunity to compare Markle to her soon-to-be sister-in-law Kate Middleton. "Kate is better than Meghan. Kate always [dressed] appropriate with the event. Formal or non formal. I think Meghan should learn from Kate how to dress [for] formal [events]," @ambuafifah wrote.

Another said: "Even in denim, Catherine walks and carries herself with poise and confidence and her clothes actually have a good fit on her. Meghan slouches and her clothes always look about 2 sizes bigger than they should."

However, many leapt to Markle's defence by reminding them that we are in 2018 and yes, women have shoulders. Some also drew attention to the fact that the Queen 'bared' her shoulders many times as a younger woman, as did Princess Diana, and Kate Middleton more recently.

Instagram users @litzie_lipmen, pointed out: "You know, Princess Diana wore a lot of off the shoulder or shoulder less [dresses]."

Meanwhile, @maddylaboyy argued that "People who say MM [dressed] inappropriately by exposing her shoulders or [that] she is not dressing royal [are] full of crap because Princess Diana bared her shoulders all the time.... If you hate her because she is mixed [race, that] is one thing but don’t pick apart everything she does or wears."

On 8th November 2016, Price Harry released an unprecedented public statement addressing the treatment of Markle in the national press and online. It read: "Meghan Markle has been subject to a wave of abuse and harassment. Some of this has been very public - the smear on the front page of a national newspaper; the racial undertones of comment pieces; and the outright sexism and racism of social media trolls and web article comments."

The statement ended with a plea to "pause and reflect before any further damage is done", but that looks unlikely in now as the couple's wedding day on Saturday, 19th May approaches.

Read These Next:

The Only Guide To Meghan Markle's Family You Need
Prince Harry Can't Stop Gushing About Meghan Markle
Here's What Prince Harry & Meghan Markle Want As A Wedding Present

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

5 Women On How They're Using WhatsApp To Change The World

"I Moved To Ireland Because Of Brexit": A 23-Year-Old Woman Who Gave Up On Britain

#RoyalBaby: The Best Reactions To Prince Harry & Meghan Markle's News

Viewing all 20479 articles
Browse latest View live